ideal icos m3080 boiler showing fault coe L8

[nickso]

it's down to poor servicing,the earth pins had probably gone(which have to be changed when servicing)thus allowing the insulation to probably be in the sump,so this is why you had the flame burning the back of the boiler

how can they be "gone" if the m series never had them in the first place?

i'm waiting for the first set of "earth pins" to corrode away to nothing and let the insulation sag again which is probably only a matter of time.

 

[idealnumber1]

it's down to poor servicing,the earth pins had probably gone(which have to be changed when servicing)thus allowing the insulation to probably be in the sump,so this is why you had the flame burning the back of the boiler

how can they be "gone" if the m series never had them in the first place?

i'm waiting for the first set of "earth pins" to corrode away to nothing and let the insulation sag again which is probably only a matter of time.

m series never had what? earth pins?you musn't be looking in the right place

 

[gas4you]

What would be a good replacment boiler? Glowworm, Potterton?

I am replacing Isars at present with The Broag Advanta Plus, 28C or 35C.

Nothing to do with BB either

 

[me01]

What would be a good replacment boiler? Glowworm, Potterton?

I am replacing Isars at present with The Broag Advanta Plus, 28C or 35C.

Nothing to do with BB either

Thanks for the recommendation. The Ideal Icos m3080 is a heat-only boiler.
We want to replace with a heat-only, again.

 

[me01]

What would be a good replacment boiler? Glowworm, Potterton?

I am replacing Isars at present with The Broag Advanta Plus, 28C or 35C.

Nothing to do with BB either

Thanks for the recommendation. The Ideal Icos m3080 is a heat-only boiler.
We want to replace with a heat-only, again.

Refreshing to find good sense of humour together with the technical comment, gas4you.

 

[Agile]

When Ideal came up with fancy names like Icos and Isar they made the fundamental error ( yes, another ) of putting the "clue" for which is a combi and includes the letter "c" in the name they wrongly chose for the NON-combi.

Perhaps a secretary shuffled the names round the wrong way?

Also just to save a few pounds and upset installers they gave the combi two years warranty and the heat only just ONE years even though the heat only is a more simple boiler with less to go wrong and at about the same sort of price!

Tony

 

[nickso]

it's down to poor servicing,the earth pins had probably gone(which have to be changed when servicing)thus allowing the insulation to probably be in the sump,so this is why you had the flame burning the back of the boiler

how can they be "gone" if the m series never had them in the first place?

i'm waiting for the first set of "earth pins" to corrode away to nothing and let the insulation sag again which is probably only a matter of time.

m series never had what? earth pins?you musn't be looking in the right place

so are you saying all m series turds had the "earth pins" that hold the insulation up or am i mistaking what an "earth pin" is?

 

[gas4you]

What would be a good replacment boiler? Glowworm, Potterton?

I am replacing Isars at present with The Broag Advanta Plus, 28C or 35C.

Nothing to do with BB either

Personally I would recommend changing to a system boiler.

Have a look at the Ecotec Plus 615/618

 

[shambolic]

They are actually ionisation probes the M and early HE had small sticky out ones the new HE and the retro fit ones are extended and help hold in the insulation panels which can bend and crack and fall forward due to inadequate servicing of sump and s trap leading to heat retention.
Now on your boiler if the service agent noticed pads were cracked he should have replaced right away as these are all that stands between the aluminium and theburner and will melt in no time.

 

[shambolic]

Ps I know it's no help now but it is a thing to check the wiring harness will have melted as the heat through the hex gets to it.
I would have paid ideal to replace hex and everything else on a fixed £220 price.

 

[me01]

Ps I know it's no help now but it is a thing to check the wiring harness will have melted as the heat through the hex gets to it.
I would have paid ideal to replace hex and everything else on a fixed £220 price.

The problem is that Ideal said they do a fixed price repair for £220, but would not say if they could guarantee to get the boiler going. Thinking it was only a poblem of fan or pcb, and the Ideal engineer might have said the same thing as the previous engineer. That they have repaired the immediate faults, and that's my lot.
I agree I should have at least tried the Ideal fixed price route.

A good advice for other people with Ideal boilers.

Dave, I will ask the engineer to consider the Ecotec plus 615.

 

[nickso]

Ps I know it's no help now but it is a thing to check the wiring harness will have melted as the heat through the hex gets to it.
I would have paid ideal to replace hex and everything else on a fixed £220 price.

The problem is that Ideal said they do a fixed price repair for £220, but would not say if they could guarantee to get the boiler going. Thinking it was only a poblem of fan or pcb, and the Ideal engineer might have said the same thing as the previous engineer. That they have repaired the immediate faults, and that's my lot.
I agree I should have at least tried the Ideal fixed price route.

A good advice for other people with Ideal boilers.

.

the only problem with that is if the backplate of the boiler is damaged also. new boiler then as that cant be repaired afaik.

 

[nickso]

They are actually ionisation probes the M and early HE had small sticky out ones the new HE and the retro fit ones are extended and help hold in the insulation panels which can bend and crack and fall forward due to inadequate servicing of sump and s trap leading to heat retention.
Now on your boiler if the service agent noticed pads were cracked he should have replaced right away as these are all that stands between the aluminium and theburner and will melt in no time.

thats the answer idealnumber1 didnt have the balls to post.

 

[shambolic]

They are actually ionisation probes the M and early HE had small sticky out ones the new HE and the retro fit ones are extended and help hold in the insulation panels which can bend and crack and fall forward due to inadequate servicing of sump and s trap leading to heat retention.
Now on your boiler if the service agent noticed pads were cracked he should have replaced right away as these are all that stands between the aluminium and theburner and will melt in no time.

thats the answer idealnumber1 didnt have the balls to post.

Maybe but not really an inherent boiler fault as I have serviced many over the years(properly) and had no problem with insulation. But then these are also fitted properly with no condense pipe blockages or airlocks too. The only ones I ever have had to change are about 4-5 years old and either never been serviced or on a contract with a certain national company who do a safety and performance check not a full strip down service.

 

[nickso]

They are actually ionisation probes the M and early HE had small sticky out ones the new HE and the retro fit ones are extended and help hold in the insulation panels which can bend and crack and fall forward due to inadequate servicing of sump and s trap leading to heat retention.
Now on your boiler if the service agent noticed pads were cracked he should have replaced right away as these are all that stands between the aluminium and theburner and will melt in no time.

thats the answer idealnumber1 didnt have the balls to post.

Maybe but not really an inherent boiler fault as I have serviced many over the years(properly) and had no problem with insulation. But then these are also fitted properly with no condense pipe blockages or airlocks too. The only ones I ever have had to change are about 4-5 years old and either never been serviced or on a contract with a certain national company who do a safety and performance check not a full strip down service.

would this certain national company be the one i work for and still manage to clear the sump and trap on every annual visit?

im not entirely convinced by the argument that not clearing them out causes this fault but it seems to make no sense not to clear these turds out when they clearly need it doing to stop it blocking up with all that lovely sludge.