Ideal Isar HE30

[dogznob]

Hi, I've had an Isar HE30 for just over 5 years now without problems (lucky me by all the posts I've read )
Just before Christmas the heating and water failed and the fault code was alternating F L the book says it's failed to light 3 times.
So, my friend replaced the ignition generator, and the spark electrodes and made sure the gaps etc were correct, this improved performance a bit, but still occasionally got the F L fault, we've now replaced the PCB with the new orange box, and that helped for a while. When checked, my mate said there was power to the gas valve before he changed the PCB.
What I get now is, the boiler has to be reset 3 or 4 times to fire, then it runs fine for a couple of hours, then it becomes really noisy and vibrating, like it's mis firing, and instead of a constant stream being output from the external vent, it's very erratic,( ONLY DURING THE MIS-FIRE) if I don't switch the boiler off, it eventually gets the F L fault code again.

Also, there are signs of a leak somewhere inside as there is corrosion on some of the metal work.

Any help on what to try next would be greatly appreciated

 

[swbjackson]

Check the condensate pipe is clear.

 

[Deleted member 105431]

Count yourself lucky its lasted 5 years.

 

[dogznob]

I do count myself lucky it's lasted 5 yrs after what I've read on the net about it

I'll get my mate to check the condensate pipe, a couple of people I know said it sounds like the gas valve, but the guy who's been doing the work (corgi reg'd installer) didn't think it was as there's power to it, by his own admission, he knows little about my boiler having never worked on one.
I suggested scrapping it and installing a Worcester but he says it would be a waste of cash to not repair this.

 

[swbjackson]

If the condense water backs up the flue gasses can't get away properly and you get poor combustion.

 

[dogznob]

cool, I'll get him to check as soon as possible, Cheers Mike

 

[ollski]

Condensate will be backed right up overheating it and distorting the seal allowing it to leak into the combustion chamber, bet you get a scary co reading when you stick the flue gas analyser round the back of th burner aswell.
It often kills the gas valve too as the water leak goes down the breather pipe idirectly into the valve.

Untitled

• ollski
• 4 Jan 2009
• 1

Untitled

• ollski
• 4 Jan 2009
• 1

 

[gas4you]

Yep, as said, take the trap off clean out, preferably using a small screwdriver, flushing won't clear everything and clean the sump, especially to the right hand side where the flue is connected.

 

[dogznob]

It doesn't look anything like as bad as those pics, but sounds like you guys are right, hopefully the gas valve is ok, but is not it's another 80 quid gone

 

[gas4you]

90% of L:F faults on these are due to lack of PROPER servicing and blocked trap/sump

 

[Deleted member 105431]

90% of L:F faults on these are due to lack of PROPER servicing and blocked trap/sump

Sorry but you forgot to include abysmal boiler design.

 

[dogznob]

Had the trap off and scraped some serious crap out of there, was rock solid, checked it and it's flowing well, the pipe connected to it was clear.

One thing I'm not clear on, what is the sump?

 

[gas4you]

The plate along the bottom of the HE that is held in place with 3 screws. It says on it ' do not remove unless trap is drained and removed ' or similar.

Oh, one more thing to cheer you up, all that carp in the trap and the sump is your HE being corroded away by the condensate

Nice one Ideal, or any manufacturer that uses aluminium HE's

 

[dogznob]

Sorted, my mate wasn't sure, and I wouldn't have had a clue.
Good news on the heat exchanger though

 

[idealnumber1]

The plate along the bottom of the HE that is held in place with 3 screws. It says on it ' do not remove unless trap is drained and removed ' or similar.

Oh, one more thing to cheer you up, all that carp in the trap and the sump is your HE being corroded away by the condensate

Nice one Ideal, or any manufacturer that uses aluminium HE's

you can't help yourself can you?you must have some issue's with ideal?,grow up and get over it,if you knew anything the exchanger would take up to 25 years until the corrosion affected it