Ideal Logic boiler prblem

[Pull2Open]

Hi all

I have a problem with my boiler and could do with some advice.

Firstly, I'm not GSR have not undertaken any restricted works myself and have had an engineer out a couple of times. However, the problem persists and is regularly showing fault flashing and alternating L & 3

The boiler keeps firing for about 10 seconds and then turns off, only to fire again about a minute later. The display is telling me that there is a call for CH but the temperature has been reached. HW is working fine (but tends to trigger the L3 fault from time to time) . The rads are only luke warm at best. This problem has been persisting since September and we have had a very cold winter in our house.

There is a problem with the pressure as the engineers who installed it (it was done under a government grant) damaged the pressure valve so it is permanently on and showing 2-2.5 bar but the engineer who I called out said that isn't really a concern and it wouldn't make any difference.

So, I have had the Diverter valve changed in the last two months, and the system flushed through and cleaned, the engineer has confirmed that the pump is working ok and has replaced the Plate Heat Exchanger.

There is no difference and the problem persists. Having now done my own research, have noticed that a common (and cheap its seems) repair for this fault (which the book says is 'no water flow') is to change the Thermistor.

Can anyone shed a sliver of light on this.

Thanks in advance.

BTW: I understand that the fitting of these systems under that scheme has been a nightmare and that the boilers are sh*t, but its the boiler I have and cant afford to replace.

Edit: I am a qualified electrician, although I haven't worked as one for 20 years now, and am very handy and can turn my hand to most problems (not in an incompetent way) so can anyone also advise me if this is a job I could safely attempt myself without the need to be GSR. The thermistor is very accessible and I have the correct tools.

 

[gigz]

First thing to check would be to make sure both F&R valves are open properly (i think they should point up and down). Been called out to a fair few of logics where the customer topped the heating up but closed the return valve off by mistake instead of the intergrated filling loop.

Just re-read your post L3 i can't find but the L would mean lockout and would need manually resetting ?

 

[ianmcd]

So:

To read back : you are a qualified electrician and you can turn your hand to most things ?

Yet you qualified for a free boiler under the ECO scheme so you are living on benefits.

So you come on here asking the very people that this scheme is robbing a living from to ask for advice?

Forgive me if I decline to tell you how to rob another engineer out of a living

 

[Pull2Open]

So:

To read back : you are a qualified electrician and you can turn your hand to most things ?

Yet you qualified for a free boiler under the ECO scheme so you are living on benefits.

So you come on here asking the very people that this scheme is robbing a living from to ask for advice?

Forgive me if I decline to tell you how to rob another engineer out of a living

How ignorant!

You are clearly assuming that I had the boiler installed. You would be incorrect. I got my information about this boiler and who it was fitted by from forums like this one and paperwork left with the boiler. I am not on benefits, am a career professional and its an inherited system with warmfront and eaga stickers all over it but thanks anyway. My own 'reasonable' assumption that it was damaged by the installers is that the single mother who owned the house previously wouldn't have undertaken any work, she wasn't that sort and the engineer I 'paid' to look at it told me it hadn't been serviced since the day it was installed.

Forgive me if I think you appear to be adopting the 'Ass' part of the word Assume. Yes I'm a qualified electrician and left the profession in 1989 after the boom and bust of that time and went into public service and have been in it ever since.

All kinds of wrong I'm afraid and if this is the sort of response I am to expect I'm sorry I asked for any advice!

 

[muggles]

You can't do anything on this boiler yourself as you can't remove the white front case panel without being GSR

L3 is a circulation fault, it could be the pressure sensor that your engineer has told you is OK - I've had to replace three of these on Logics as they've failed. It may also be that your boiler is firing too hard for the system - if the flow/return differential temperature is more than 30ºC I believe this can also bring up L3

 

[Pull2Open]

You can't do anything on this boiler yourself as you can't remove the white front case panel without being GSR

L3 is a circulation fault, it could be the pressure sensor that your engineer has told you is OK - I've had to replace three of these on Logics as they've failed. It may also be that your boiler is firing too hard for the system - if the flow/return differential temperature is more than 30ºC I believe this can also bring up L3

Ah, well I'm afraid I had to do this in order to find out and try and stop a leak because after two weeks without success, trying to get an engineer, I couldn't stand waking up to a wet bathroom floor any more. There wasn't anything to tell me not take the cover off.

 

[muggles]

You can't do anything on this boiler yourself as you can't remove the white front case panel without being GSR

There wasn't anything to tell me not take the cover off.

Common sense should tell you not to take the cover off a boiler unless you know what you're doing. By removing the cover you're breaking the seal that makes the boiler room sealed and exposing the combustion chamber

 

[Deano72]

I thought/was told you can take cover off and do various other things as long as no money is exchanged. Can anyone clarify this pls

 

[muggles]

Money changing hands has nothing to do with it. Some boilers have a secondary inner cover that keeps the gas bits enclosed so you can work on the wet bits underneath without entering the combustion chamber, but the Logic is not one of them. The general rule, therefore, is this - if you are unsure, leave it alone

 

[Deano72]

^^^ ta

 

[Pull2Open]

You can't do anything on this boiler yourself as you can't remove the white front case panel without being GSR

There wasn't anything to tell me not take the cover off.

Common sense should tell you not to take the cover off a boiler unless you know what you're doing. By removing the cover you're breaking the seal that makes the boiler room sealed and exposing the combustion chamber

I appreciate what you're saying but I have owned several boilers in several houses, all of which have had the restricted parts enclosed within secondary units. How does common sense tell me that I cant do what I have done safely with every other boiler I have owned.

I wasn't unsure, I was trying to stop a bad leak as I had been turned down by plumber after plumber as I worked my way through the yellow pages over two weeks. The frustration in trying to sort this problem out when you cant get a professional to give you the time of day is quite unbearable.

Anyway, I digress but thank you for your advice.

 

[gigz]

Have you checked the F&R valves ? (You don't need to take the cover off for that)

 

[shambolic]

Ever thought of phoning ideal for a fixed price repair?
Ps the ideal logic boiler is far from being ****e!!

 

[shambolic]

It quite clearly tells you in the manual for this boiler that you shouldn't remove the cover as you need to carry out some safety tests after refitting it.

 

[Pull2Open]

It quite clearly tells you in the manual for this boiler that you shouldn't remove the cover as you need to carry out some safety tests after refitting it.

I suppose it would have been clear had I had the manual to work from which I didn't. However, considering I had tried without fail to get a qualified engineer for two weeks and I was at a position where water was pouring like a tap from inside the boiler, even if I had read it I would still been in a position where I would have had to remove it to stop or stem the leak.

I'm not sure if anyone is getting the fact that I called almost all the plumbers in my area and none of them wanted to know until I finally found one by chance through a friend of a friend who didn't advertise. Business is booming it seems that so many can simply turn the work down.

Anyway, I thought this was supposed to be a place where you could get help, all I seem to have got so far (with one exception) is wagging fingers and abuse. I wont be back again.