Ideal Mini C24 no CH or HW

[jswagger]

Hello,

I have an Ideal Mini C24 combi with integral programmer (timer), about 7 or 8 years old.

This morning the boiler was set to come on at 6:30 but when I got up it had not come on even though the thermostat was set at a suitable temp to trigger the boiler. Also no hot water when I tried.

The green lamp in the bottom left of the control panel is not flashing or displaying anything at all, unlike the flash it displays normally. I think power is getting to the boiler as part of the timer display is still showing. However the display now just shows On or Off as you scroll through the settings, for some reason the clock part displaying the actual time has stopped being shown.

I have tried the reset button with no joy. Also I have switched the boiler onto non timed to try to get it to fire with no joy.

Not sure if is linked but I am sure I had a burning smell coming from the boiler last night?

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[jswagger]

Have now had a chance to do some checking.

Both the external 3 amp and the 1.6 amp fuse on the no.1 PCB (left side) fuses had blown. I changed them both and the green light came back on flashing as usual but when I tried to fire the heating they both blew again.

I replaced the fuses again and then tried to get hot water. All that will happen is that there is a very loud clicking noise from the centre of no.1 PCB (look like relays?) for a few seconds before the boiler locks out. The same now happens if I try to fire the heating. If I reset the boiler ihe green light comes on until I try to get heating or water.

Should I just change No.1 PCB or could another component failure be causing it to act like that?

I have done some research online and it would appear No.1 PCB is called a logic PCB.

Thanks

 

[onlyfitidealboilers]

get a gas engineer to repair it.

 

[Agile]

On your boiler some component will have failed and be blowing the fuses.

Its most likely to be the diverter valve motor following a leaking gland.

You can test that by noting the colours and disconnecting the two outer wires and repeating the trial with new fuses of the right value!

Tony

 

[jswagger]

Thanks for the replies. I will try the diverter motor.

The fuses are no longer blowing, just the boiler is locking out.

 

[Agile]

You may have damaged the PCB by repeatedly overloading it. You should put a low value fuse of say 200ma if you are playing with a boiler with a serious overload.

It could also be the pump is faulty, perhaps from what you now say that is more likely.

To eliminate that, power the pump from an external source with a 3A fuse.

Tony

 

[jswagger]

Cheers,

What would be wrong with the pump?

 

[Agile]

Failed and shorting to earth or just taking an over current.

Since they are only earthed by a wired connection if you power it externally then you need to do that WITH and earth connection!

Tony

 

[jswagger]

Have powered up the pump and I think it's ok.

There is a click and a v quiet hum when power is connected, (not the noise I was expecting but then I have never stood there and listened before).

 

[Agile]

The salient test is what the boiler does with the pump powered externally! Does it still blow the fuse???

If so then:-

Remove the outer two connections to the diverter motor and repower and see if it still blows fuse. ( Didn't I ask you to do that before? )

Remove the locating clip from under the diverter valve motor and take the motor off and see if the operating pin area is wet and rusty.

Tony

 

[jswagger]

boiler has stopped blowing fuses and just lock out.

When pump powered externally it does not blow fuse.

Removed outer two diverter valve wires and boiler locks out but fuses ok.

Perhaps new PCB and install it first time with a 200ma fuse?

 

[Agile]

We need to know why it locks out.

Exactly what does it do before it locks out? How long before it locks out? Does it spark?

Tony

 

[jswagger]

If I turn the power on at the wall switch the green LED flashes like normal.

If you call for heat or water a loud clicking noise (which appears to come for some relays on PCB1 or somewhere on PCB2) is heard for a few seconds and boiler locks out. Boiler does not spark. It only does this if you call for heat or hot water.

Press reset and the green LED flashes like normal.

 

[jswagger]

Just to provide an update on this.

I did some closer checking and noticed some burnmarks on the ignition PCB. When I took the PCB out you could see underneath where a component had short-circuited and burnt a hole in the PCB. Figuring I would need a new PCB anyway I bought a new one (why are PCB's so expensive?) and when fitted the boiler worked fine.

Thanks to all of those who helped.