Ideal mini c28 on/off

[Toby4life]

doing my head in now.

1 day is fine next day isn't.
1 hour is fine next hour isn't.
The problem differs and is never consistent.

The main problem is the boiler keeps cycling on/off. Sometimes ignites sometimes doesn't.

Them when thermostat is on will continuously go on and off. Then eventually will stay on until it reaches room temperature.

Next day I could have no problems.

Then when there's no call for water or heating it will still click on and off.

Please see video

 

[Hason]

Could be pcb issue depends on age of boiler etc, could be stray voltage from external controls, could be a number of issues, get a gas safe guy in to look at issue
Good luck

 

[Toby4life]

Yeah I was thinking PCB. I have fitted a smart thermostat onto it before aswell, since took it off and swapped between normal thermostat and smart. Yesterday I seemed to have little issues with smart thermostat on (had problems with it installed before). However went back to older wall thermostat today and the problems have continued... makes me think it's something electrical at least. Video is now added to previous post....

 

[AGAS]

are you still getting hot water ?

 

[Toby4life]

Hot water works fine.

Boiler cycles on and off for central heating. (Not all the time)

When neither are in demand boiler clicks on and off but doesn't always ignite.

Dunno if I heard some sort of air building up or increase in gas to boiler then it shutting off. Then going back into a vicious cycle.

The cycling also seems to slow down or stop after I've had the hot water tap on for a few seconds and close it.

 

[AGAS]

i certainly wouldn't be changing the PCB

The cycling also seems to slow down or stop after I've had the hot water tap on for a few seconds and close it.

thats normal after a hot water demand

is your system ( rads vented )

 

[Agile]

You will need an engineer to diagnose the problem.

Tony

 

[Toby4life]

Update.

A stat sensor has been replaced.
Not sure it's done the trick if I'm honest, but the cycles aren't as frequent. (Only replaced today)

After also contacting the maker of the boiler 'ideal'. They reckon it's some sort of blockage or restriction. Something that's blocking heat from travelling around the system in turn causing the boiler to cut out on central heating demand. (Something like that)

That been said the nearest radiator to the boiler has a cold spot centre bottom of the radiator. All but 1 radiator have been changed in the past year. Nearest to boiler has been changed mind.

Could a power flush of the system be needed and is this a likely cause of my intial issue?

 

[ianmcd]

Nope its not a blockage, but you need a RGI as what needs to be replaced is inside the combustion chamber and you can not do it yourself

 

[Agile]

Update.

That been said the nearest radiator to the boiler has a cold spot centre bottom of the radiator. All but 1 radiator have been changed in the past year. Nearest to boiler has been changed mind.

Could a power flush of the system be needed and is this a likely cause of my intial issue?

A rad cold at the bottom center is a classic description of a sludged up rad.

However, why were most of the rads changed?

What was the colour of the water when they were changed?

What was this "sensor stat" which was changed?

Tony

 

[Toby4life]

The radiators were changed as they looked old and I wanted new ones.

Water was brown when they were drained with thick sludge at the bottom.

Some sort of thermostatic sensor on the boiler was changed I believe.

I'm wondering if most the sludge in the system has settled to the lower radiators in the house hence the kitchen radiator being cold in the centre and living room radiator warm at the bottom but not red hot.

 

[Agile]

That should have been a clue that the system needed attention to the sludge.

The simple DIY solution would be to remove the cold spot rad to the garden and wash it through with a hose to hopefully get rid of the blockage. If a single panel then usually it can be poked with a metal rod.

But if the vertical water ways are also blocked then they may not be completely cleared that way.

Then use a sludge remover chemical like X400 for 4-5 weeks before draining and adding X100 inhibitor.

The question comes to my mind who chose to replace the sensor and why. Although if it has cured one of your problems then that's good news.

Tony

 

[Toby4life]

Thanks Tony.

I'm going to clean out the radiator this weekend. Can only help matters I guess.

A gas engineer replaced the sensor. He spent 30 seconds on the boiler and didn't fill me with much confidence anyway. Rest of the time was on an iPad 'filling stuff in'.

Appreciate the help and will post on here if there is any updates

 

[Agile]

The two NTCs, if either was open circuit ( unlikely ) would give an LED light fault indication on the internal diagnostic display if it was activated.

Otherwise he might have made a guess or measured them with a test meter.

So could have been a very quick repair.

But my listening to your boiler did not make me think that a sensor would have been the only fault.

Tony

 

[Toby4life]

He tested it with a voltage meter I believe.

No fault lights have showed up I know that.

Just a continues flashing green light.