Immersion Heater not working - is it just the Thermostat?

just tested the resistance (with the power off again) between the L and N terminals and it read 28 - is that really bad? does this mean also the element has failed? why would this be? scale...?? wear and tear??
 
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whilst i'm being dumb, one last query, the thermostat obviously of course heats up and then heats the element by conduction which in turn then heats the water in the cylinder.

?

are you clear about the role of the thermostat now ?
The immersion element heats the water .The thermostat just controls the electrical supply to the immersion by sensing the temperature .

your electrical supply to the immersion connects through the thermostat which is essentially a switch .When the water has reached the temperature set on the thermostat the thermostat disconnects the electrical supply to the immersion,effectively turning it off until the water temperature falls below the temperature setting when it switches the power through the immersion again.
Sorry for the long explanation but it was clear to me that you didn't understand the operation
 
thanks weseeyou, i was just there about 20 mins ago but your explanation is very clear and helpful too. i really appreciate it.

would you be able to also answer my above reply to this post about the thermostat switch possibly being stucj/worn out, the ohms reading i got and the cause of it? ...
 
just tested the resistance (with the power off again) between the L and N terminals and it read 28 - is that really bad? does this mean also the element has failed?
TBH I doubt it. It might mean that you have a 2kW element. Is there a label on the cover, or a value stamped into the brass boss?

why would this be? scale...?? wear and tear??
With the power off, if you bypass the thermerstat, then put the cover back and re-energise, does the water get hot?
 
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just tested the resistance (with the power off again) between the L and N terminals and it read 28 - is that really bad? does this mean also the element has failed?
TBH I doubt it. It might mean that you have a 2kW element. Is there a label on the cover, or a value stamped into the brass boss?



why would this be? scale...?? wear and tear??
With the power off, if you bypass the thermerstat, then put the cover back and re-energise, does the water get hot?

sorry you've lost me ... why would it mean I have a 2kw element? I think it's a standard 3 kw but i'll take it look.


i'm not sure what you mean? bypass the thermostat then re-energise, what do you mean exactly? sorry!
 
why would it mean I have a 2kw element?
Well, 28 Ohms would be the expected resistance of a 2kW element, would it not?

With the power off, if you bypass the thermerstat, then put the cover back and re-energise, does the water get hot?
i'm not sure what you mean? bypass the thermostat then re-energise, what do you mean exactly? sorry!
With the power off, remove both of the wires from the 'stat, and connect them together using a connector block.
 
yes i agree, about 26-28 ohms would be correct. but my heater is 3kw! i'll test it again, bear with me!

btw what you are saying about the wires together - this is to prove the thermostat has failed right? i thought this was already proved though with the "no continuity" from L to T terminalsd though?
 
yes i agree, about 26-28 ohms would be correct. but my heater is 3kw!
According to.... ?

i'll test it again, bear with me!
How old is your meter battery?

btw what you are saying about the wires together - this is to prove the thermostat has failed right?
Wrong. Hence the question "does the water heat up?".
 
heater has 3KW on the cover sticker.

also the multi meter batteries have been in for quite a while and i of course do not use it often.

i see, what you are saying is, bypass the thermostat and if the water heats up this way, then it proves the stat has failed? or not... i thought the ohms test being above 18-19 proved the elemenet was at fault though?

sorry ... it's late
 
lower the reading.
if its 0 its knackered if its about 10 it works but not 100%
 
I have to apologise, I have a 2KW heater, which is odd, I thought it was a standard 3KW one. Anyway from what I have learned today from this forum and from the 2 tests I did : The thermostat has failed and the element seems ok (ohms reading abour right).

Probably over the years the switch has stuck/worn and is not making connection now when it is required too.
 
Oh, you having fun? Well I'm a mushroom-cloud-laying mother****er, mother****er! Everytime I explain about immersions I'm Superfly TNT, I'm the Guns of the Navarone. IN FACT, what the **** am I doing here? You the mother****er should be on thermostat detail! We ****ing switching.
 

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