Inlet valve for washing machine

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Is there a difference in the actual valve bodies between the hot and cold inlet valves?

The background: in-law reported the machine was filling up with water continuously - from a distance I diagnosed a passing inlet valve (I got that bit right) and took a cold water valve round. Of course when I get to it it turned out to be the hot valve.

What I did was to swap the existing solenoid onto the new valve. This did of course seal, but will it give other problems later?
 
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probably becuse its not the solenoid at fault.

the solenoid pulls in a little plunger.
the plunger sits over a hole on a disc
the dis is flexible
when the plunger is removed a tiny amount of water flows through the riny hole
the disck then "flips" allowing more water in through the big hole it was covering.

to stop the water the small hole is covered and the disc flips back.

what can and does happen is a tiny amount of debris gets caught in the big hole so the disc can not seal it 100% there by letting in water very slowly.

the if you check the coils they are both ok, and there will be no voltage on either of them.

its also how come some m/c's fill over night when the m/c is switched off and the door open (no power at all)
 
I understand how these things work - my question was whether the actual valve body is different on the hot and cold - I think the only difference would be the size of the orifice and the effect on the flow rate.

I didn't check, but I'm sure the solenoid was fine. If it isn't then the machine should fill from the cold - wasteful, but it is not mine :)
 
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Sorry, I don't really follow your thinking (but I guess you are thinking the same thing). The new valve sealed using the existing solenoid, so that really points to debris in the valve or a damaged seal.

I have had a few more thoughts on the differences, and am leaning towards there being no real differences. The valves have to be able to "control" the flow at various inlet pressures - hot water especially. Since the filling controls are not overly sophisticated (simple on/off control) it is unlikely that the flow charcteristics of the valve are that important - you might get a bit more or a bit less water, but no real issue there.
 
I think there's a bit of confusion here.

Breezer, did you read the same as me? Initally, I read new coil on old valve.

Basically it's a new cold water valve with a used hot water valve coil on it.
It should work OK.
 

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