Installing double glazed panes into old frames?

Joined
27 Jan 2004
Messages
80
Reaction score
0
Location
Bournemouth
Country
United Kingdom
On the front of my house I have a fairly large bay which houses some very nice georgian wooden framed single glazed windows. They are the originals and the glass is all a bit old and warped, but the frames are sound.

I was wondering if it is possible to put double glazing into the existing frames? The Frames are quite thick?

Any advice/guidance will be greatly appreciated?
 
Sponsored Links
greenep said:
I was wondering if it is possible to put double glazing into the existing frames? The Frames are quite thick?
Yes you can and you can have a frame made up without the bottom cill if your old window frame have a cill.
 
Masona, not my area this really but do you think greenep means without any plastic frame at all? I read it as meaning just the cheaper panels of glass fixed in with say a pieces of roundedge beading or similar on either side.

Would that way be a possibility to reduce the cost and possibly look better on an old house,or have I got it wrong?
 
i read it the same way as you dxj ;)

you can apparently get double glazed units with a step so the outside glass is in the origional position and the inside glass steps up towards the back of the opening
so you dont need a bigger [deeper]rebate
 
Sponsored Links
david and julie said:
Masona, not my area this really but do you think greenep means without any plastic frame at all?
Don't know, the more I read it, the more I don't know :LOL:

greenep said:
I was wondering if it is possible to put double glazing into the existing frames?
The answer still yes though :LOL:
 
greenep said:
On the front of my house I have a fairly large bay which houses some very nice georgian wooden framed single glazed windows. They are the originals and the glass is all a bit old and warped, but the frames are sound.

I was wondering if it is possible to put double glazing into the existing frames? The Frames are quite thick?

Any advice/guidance will be greatly appreciated?



Depends on the size of your rebate, the smallest thickness of sealed unit is 14mm overall, then you need room for your putty 2mm, then your beads.

Other than that go with step units, these take up the same thickness of single glass. Not many people make them now and I only know of one place.
 
Yes, sorry if I caused any confusion, I did mean to replace the glass only leaving all of the original woodwork intact.

The stepped units sound quite good. But to try and cut costs (assuming stepped units would cost more?) I was wondering if as long as I leave a decent amount of frame, could I route out up to 16mm of the frame (suggested 16mm as per activeyaw's guidance) so that it would then be able to take the thicker double glazed units? The frame is about 40mm deep. In other words, what is the minimum frame width I should leave?

Also, the top third of the windows consists of lots of small paines, is there a minimum unit size (say 130mm x 130mm) that a glazier will make? anybody know?

Appreciate all your comments so far masona, D & J, big-all and activeyaw.
 
I know it sound stupid but it probably cheaper to take the whole window out and renew.
 
I think a lot of the character of the House comes from the original windows, so I'd want them replaced like for like. To get someone to make copies would cost a lot (in my opinion), but to get someone to make up a number of double glazed units which I would then put into the existing frames myself would surely be cheaper?
 
well your first port of call is to ask several d/glazing companies if they do "stepped d\g units"for sash windows then get several quotes.

as for cutting the rebate deeper i would be concerned about the glazing bars becoming weaker especialy the joint where they cross [there is realy very little holding the 4sections together :rolleyes:
 
masona said:
I know it sound stupid but it probably cheaper to take the whole window out and renew.

Thats vandalism tbh.

http://www.tatra-glass.co.uk/

Have a look there, you'll be able to get some warped glass made up, it will look much better and much more authentic than double glazed float glass. The ripples in the glass are part of what adds to the character of your house. Please don't destroy it in some vain attempt to save money via heat loss (you'll only be replacing them in 20 years anyway, so its not worth it).

Greenep, please don't do anything to destroy the character of your house. Although I doubt the glass is original (its very unusual for glass sheets so large to survive for more than 200 years), if you source the correct materials you can help that house live for another 200 years. What you're suggesting now with your windows is no different to what people did 40 years ago when they ripped their lovely old cast iron fireplaces out.
 
Tom, don't you think that's a little unfair? I'm not talking about ripping out the windows and replacing them with UPVC characterless frames, I'm trying to retain the original look whilst making the windows more practical.

As for the rippled glass you mention, that's what I've already got in the frames. That's what annoys me because I can't look out of the window without the view being distorted by the glass.

I understand your point, and in theory I agree with you, but on the other hand isn't the point of glass to allow you to see the outside world?
 
greenep you say the windows are Georgian, are they side hung or are they vertical sliding sashes? There will be trouble with the extra weight of glass if they are verticals.

I agree with Tom's sentiment, and I have yet to see a cost comparison for heat loss through windows that demonstrate the benefits of double glazing, given the seals are quite likely to fail and cause condensation between the panes, AND that most of the cost comparisons neatly forget the boundary layer of air next to the glass that does most of the insulating anyway.

If you are looking after your frames, are they painted? I have just come across this . The estate has 300 cottages and their approach to window maintenance is to repair if possible not rip out ant replace, as it saves them money. Avoiding modern paints is the other reason their long term costs are lower.
 
Oilman, have you use Linseed oil paint? Sounds like a good idea as you have a colour choice as you don't with Tung oil.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top