installing fridge and washer to plug point?

deancowell said:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/710020?htxt=6YwZAISW1i5OgIudElUVh4%2BI3KMD0YlK3aWM7EPIBJQVvJOxcInvY1H4JwBcSZ2MIfCIMv2VNq1z%0AWJ9bQPNXrg%3D%3D

guys - could you confirm this is the right thing to buy?

I noticed this one is not 'switched' correct?

Winner!
 
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deancowell said:
guys - could you confirm this is the right thing to buy?

I noticed this one is not 'switched' correct?

it is the correct type but does not show a brandname.

Buy MK, Crabtree or MEM. It might cost you 50p more. All the sheds carry a good quality range and a cheepy cheep range.
 
I think it my be the wickes brand - I would prefer to buy a better quality one but will it make a difference if all this is I can find?Not sure I have a 'shed' nearby - B&Q or homebase are the alternatives
 
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JohnD said:
deancowell said:
guys - could you confirm this is the right thing to buy?

I noticed this one is not 'switched' correct?

it is the correct type but does not show a brandname.

Buy MK, Crabtree or MEM. It might cost you 50p more. All the sheds carry a good quality range and a cheepy cheep range.

Why? Easier to wire I suppose, but its hardly gonna save much time when only doing two!
 
No - Quality. Cheapo ones do not last, often overheat, the plastic is crap, the terminals fall apart.......
 
Let me say there ain't many electricians with that attitude! As an ex-purveyor of fine Deta and Vimark goods, most seem to want to pay as little as possible, because as long as it lasts the length of time they are on site, they're happy.
 
Can't thank you chaps enough for the advice and help. Picked up 2 13amp sockets from Wickes - I picked up what they had which seems to be thier own brand, but as they sell to the trade as well as the public - hopefully good enough quality. Fitted as per your instruction, all easy enough. Tested with a small appliances as suggested - all good. Units now in place and will test this evening. The post about cheaper quality sockets burning out has worried me, but surely the power will trip before any damage could occur?

I don't suppose you would know if the washer water inlet should be connected to the hot or cold valve - it only has one?

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the advice, dean
 
Can't vouch for Wickes own brand quality, don't know who makes it for them, but to see a socket burnt out internally, rather than due to bad wiring is rare in my opinion. Just make sure your wires are in the terminals full, no copper showing, and that the terminals are tight!

Most washers these days are cold fill only. Its actually cheaper in most instances for the washer to heat its own water separately.
 
thanks - thats great - I had connected to cold, just wanted to be sure - I take it opening the valve now should be ok, as when I turned the cold valve it obviousley had water come shooting through - but now connected I assume I can turn it?
 
Open that baby up and let rip with the clothes washing! Might be worth getting some sort of bung for the hot, just incase the valve on the hose doesn't last forever. They must sell them in Wickes (sorry to send you back there!)
 
thats ok - all very helpful again, I was a bit nervous to open as I've no idea as to how this would shut off - I guess would only enter the washer when the washer is turned on??

I may be pushing my luck with questions - but here goes - the flat is fitted with a combi boiler, which fires up nicely when hot water or heating is switched on. There is however a cuboard with a geyser/tank in it which I can only assume is redundant - would be good to rip this baby out for more storage space if so. Who could I get to check this (plumber/electrician?) what do you think?
 
Once the valve is opened, water rushes into the machine where it is controlled by the machines own valves. No need to touch it from here on unless you develop a leak.

I know very little about plumbing to my shame. Never really got to grips (no pun intended!) with it.

All I will add is that I am certain you do not have a cupboard with a geyser in it!

http://www.atlanticfountains.com/images/ACPic/GEYSER.jpg

Isnt a combi boiler one that doesnt have a storage tank? Is it definitely a combi? I suppose, even with a combi (if its how i imagine it working, HW on demand etc) its possible that you might have an immersion as well?

A Central Heating Engineer is what you want, who are normally closer to plumbers than electricians, but not necessarily the same.

I would start a new post to get more attention.

Most people will have given up on this thread as the Oli and Dean Show!
 

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