insulating in the eaves.

[scrumpyjack]

This is hard to explain but here goes--my mid-terraced house was built about 1979 and the tops of the upstairs window frames are level with the eaves on the outside. Inside the house the window frames are about 11" from the ceiling so the top part of the wall outside is concealed by the roof and facia.
We always get a lot of condensation and mould inside the bathroom at the top of the wall, but mostly about 6" down from the ceiling and roughly where I imagine the lintel would be. The top of the wall also feels colder than the rest and sounds different if you tap it.
Now the question--is there supposed to be insulation above the window? and if it was missing would it help cause my mould problem?
Should there be any insulation in the lintel??--Could I put some in or over?
The mould keeps coming back even with an extractor fan- open windows-no wet towels or face cloths and the bath dried off after use.
Any suggestions please?

 

[tawelfryn]

I wouldn't have thought a 70's house would have cavity insulation, and its probably got concrete lintels, or even if it has steel boot lintels, these would not have insulation in them like today's do.
From what you describe, and what I imagine your house look like, it sounds to me that the first layer of felt on your roof is probably rotten by now, allowing water to seep down the cavity and into inside walls, causing damp and mould like you describe

 

[Deluks]

I wouldn't have thought a 70's house would have cavity insulation, and its probably got concrete lintels, or even if it has steel boot lintels, these would not have insulation in them like today's do.
From what you describe, and what I imagine your house look like, it sounds to me that the first layer of felt on your roof is probably rotten by now, allowing water to seep down the cavity and into inside walls, causing damp and mould like you describe

That's assuming the roof covering is shot?

 

[tawelfryn]

From what you describe, and what I imagine your house look like, it sounds to me that the first layer of felt on your roof is PROBABLY rotten by now, allowing water to seep down the cavity and into inside walls, causing damp and mould like you describe

That's assuming the roof covering is shot?

I am assuming, as my post says PROBABLY.
In nearly 20 yrs, bitumen roof felt WILL rot, especially the first layer that covers the fascia.
Not to mention that assuming this diagnosis, the first job is to lift the first couple of layers of tiles to check the felt, even to check the cavity for insulation, this has to be done.

 

[scrumpyjack]

I wouldn't have thought a 70's house would have cavity insulation, and its probably got concrete lintels, or even if it has steel boot lintels, these would not have insulation in them like today's do.
From what you describe, and what I imagine your house look like, it sounds to me that the first layer of felt on your roof is probably rotten by now, allowing water to seep down the cavity and into inside walls, causing damp and mould like you describe

The walls are filled.We were told by a warm front surveyor a few years ago but he didn't check all the way up.
The lintels are concrete as you say--I've tried drilling them!!!
Is it a feasible DIY job?? i'ts coming up to xmas and the goose is even thinner this year but it's the sort of thing that needs doing --the mould isn't heathy and i've got 2 young 'uns.

 

[tawelfryn]

If the walls are filled, then its been probably drilled and pumped in? Wasn't so much common practice to put insulation on in the 70's, but seeing as it was late 70's then maybe.
As for checking the felt, and if it is rotten, replacing the first run, you would need to take off about 3-4 layers of tiles to get the new one in and the overlap, new battens. I wouldn't recommend this being a diy job, simply because its hard to do off ladders and a bit dangerous.
I would recommend a competent roofer, at least to check this is the problem, and if needs changing

 

[scrumpyjack]

If the walls are filled, then its been probably drilled and pumped in? Wasn't so much common practice to put insulation on in the 70's, but seeing as it was late 70's then maybe.
As for checking the felt, and if it is rotten, replacing the first run, you would need to take off about 3-4 layers of tiles to get the new one in and the overlap, new battens. I wouldn't recommend this being a diy job, simply because its hard to do off ladders and a bit dangerous.
I would recommend a competent roofer, at least to check this is the problem, and if needs changing

Thanks for the advice--A neighbour who's had a load of work done on his place told me that the lintels are steel and the cavity wall insulation is the matting stuff. As for the roof ,I agree. I can't fly so will get a roofer to look at it.
That will be no pressy for me this year!!-----again!

 

[scrumpyjack]

Hi experts--I think i've found the problem and want some suggestions to fix it--it's the wind which blows up a valley and hits the front of the house for 90% of the year.
I removed part of the soffit air vent which was damaged anyway and had a look at the roof felt. It's still there ,a bit tatty looking but not letting any water in. I can see the inner wall- and the steel lintel, which is also exposed.
This is the same area inside the bathroom which get so wet!
I propose to temporarily extend the loft insulation down over the top of the wall and lintel toward the soffit and see the internal wall warms up a bit. I will make sure that the air can still circulate.
If it works could I use spray insulation on the wall and lintel as a permanent cure??
Who sells small quantities? I only need to cover an area 12"x 15ft to a depth of about 4".
Any other suggestion warmly welcomed