internal concrete floor

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I am about to lay a concrete floor in an old barn. The area is approx 5m by 6m. The spec of the floor is 150mm type1, 50mm sand, DPM, layer of mesh and 150mm C30 concrete.

I am nervous about achieving the correct level.

I was considering attaching some 4by2 to the walls so the lower level will be at the finished floor level. I was then going to use a length of 6by2 as the straight edge notched so that it would rest on the 4by2 again with the lower edge at the finished floor level.

Will this work - I'm a bit worried that because I'll be working in a building that already exists the walls will restrict the movment of the screeding plank. Do you just tamp the concrete down rather than a 'sawing' motion.

I was going to hire a twin beam vibrating screeder. Would this be a worth while hire. What sort of form work would it require.

cheers
colin
 
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If it's an old barn who cares? Animals aren't fussy.
 
Has the missus knocked you back over a spot of early evening rumpy or something, Joe?!
 
Hi, Colin,
The normal procedure for this would be,
When all the other dry bits are done and the DPM and mesh is down and supported, etc,
To pour down each side with a slightly drier mix than normal, for about 12" or a bit more and level that off as a screed, (you can mark the finished level on the wall or just note which bed joint is nearest etc.)
Then fill in between these wet screeds, (which will be a bit dryer than the middle concrete.)
As your smallest width is 5mts you can put another wet screed down the middle to make the screeding off more managable, as anything over about 8ft is difficult to do. (the middle screed is leveled off the outer screeds with a long 6x2 or similar.
The filling in will then be a piece of pish.
Plan to end up at the doorway :rolleyes:
 
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I am about to lay a concrete floor in an old barn. The area is approx 5m by 6m. The spec of the floor is 150mm type1, 50mm sand, DPM, layer of mesh and 150mm C30 concrete.

i take it, the lack of insulation means the space is not to be used as habitable?

if you are nervous about getting the concrete spot on, which incidentally does take a lot of effort to produce an acceptable surface on raw concrete, allow room for a sharp sand screed.

the screed could be added later.

power-floats, bull tampers and power-screeders are specialist stuff and hard work.
 
Insulation - now there is a thought!!

At present I intend just to use it has a store/workshop. There is another attached barn and there is a good chance of get planning permission at some point. I had never considered insulation. If I wanted to future proof the floor how would I need to change the spec to make it ok?

Thaks for the other info so far. I must admit using a drier run of concrete as a level sounds a bit tricky. Can they alter the 'drieness' of the mix once it arrives on the truck?

cheers
Colin
 
Hi, colin,
yes the readymix is normally quite dry as it comes, and the driver can put some of his header tank in to make the rest wetter.
I'ts fairly straight forward, but getting the concrete to where you want it is going to cause problems if you're not prepared.
 
you may need b.c. approval in order to satisfy all regulations criteria.

at least getting building control on board will afford you official documentation should you ever wish to sell the barn as converted habitable space.

now there's another thing......planning?
 

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