Is this buildable, jbonding & tawelfryn?

[carryoncamping]

Hello jbonding & tawelfryn et al,

You're the resident experts on bricklaying so I was wondering if you could please give me some idea how you'd go about building the front wall with the given dimensions.

My architect has chosen peculier dimensions for the front of my extension. I can see each figure one on its own is a multiple of 225mm (i.e. full length brick and 10mm Mortar joint) and/or 102.5mm half brick.

You'll see from the drawing there are four courses of brick below the door

If you add all the figures together you get 5482.5mm which is 24 full length bricks (225mm) and 82.5 left over, which is neither a full or half brick.

So how would the Pros build this so that there is minimal disruption of the stretcher bond? Am I missing something bleeding obvious!

 

[rangersman]

Hello jbonding & tawelfryn et al,

You're the resident experts on bricklaying so I was wondering if you could please give me some idea how you'd go about building the front wall with the given dimensions.

My architect has chosen peculier dimensions for the front of my extension. I can see each figure one on its own is a multiple of 225mm (i.e. full length brick and 10mm Mortar joint) and/or 102.5mm half brick.

You'll see from the drawing there are four courses of brick below the door

If you add all the figures together you get 5482.5mm which is 24 full length bricks (225mm) and 82.5 left over, which is neither a full or half brick.

So how would the Pros build this so that there is minimal disruption of the stretcher bond? Am I missing something bleeding obvious!

picture deleted

Don't divide by 225 - actually count bricks along the wall remembering where the 10mm mortar joint is/should be.....I get 23.5 bricks wide....

 

[masona]

On my calculation you should get away with half bat or just under 3/4 bat which is ideal

 

[carryoncamping]

Don't divide by 225 - actually count bricks along the wall remembering where the 10mm mortar joint is/should be.....I get 23.5 bricks wide....

Can you tell me how you came to that figure? Will the window and door be located correctly with minimum disruption to stretcher bond? The std UK brick is 215mm long and mortar joints are approx. 10mm.

 

[carryoncamping]

Thanks for you posts so far guys.

Wouldn't the following dimensions have made more sense and be easier to build? The entire wall is 20mm wider than the original plan.


Click on image below:


The more I think about the original question the more I think it was daft to ask it in the first place Anyway I'm still learning, and thanks for the answers so far.

 

[jbonding]

Hello jbonding & tawelfryn et al,

You're the resident experts on bricklaying so I was wondering if you could please give me some idea how you'd go about building the front wall with the given dimensions.

My architect has chosen peculier dimensions for the front of my extension. I can see each figure one on its own is a multiple of 225mm (i.e. full length brick and 10mm Mortar joint) and/or 102.5mm half brick.

You'll see from the drawing there are four courses of brick below the door

If you add all the figures together you get 5482.5mm which is 24 full length bricks (225mm) and 82.5 left over, which is neither a full or half brick.

So how would the Pros build this so that there is minimal disruption of the stretcher bond? Am I missing something bleeding obvious!

C.O.C im a plasterer so i cant really help you with brickwork

 

[Nige F]

and I can tell you that the step flashings wanna be stepped cavity trays.but your architect knows that

 

[carryoncamping]

and I can tell you that the step flashings wanna be stepped cavity trays.but your architect knows that

You mean something like:
http://www.cavitytrays.co.uk/pdf/damp_proofing/Type X.pdf

That'll be a job and a half to install on the existing house.

 

[tawelfryn]

Carry, the building is supposed to be 24 1/2 bricks long. I know if you add up the dimensions it comes to 24.36 bricks long. 20mm of perps has been lost with the dimensions, and it overall length should be 5502.5 instead of 4482.5. Set out at 5502.5 or call it 5500mm as 2.5mm wont make a difference! As I have said in earlier posts, linear gauge is most important to work brickwork.
Door is a wide one at 1002.5, (thats where the measurements have crept, 4 1/2 bricks wide opening = 1002.5 + perps EITHER side = 1020.5mm)

Ps I notice your brick on edge looks like its showing only 75mm as its 102.5, but that could be because of the soffit covering it at the top, also why is there 150mm soildiers above the door? It should be the same height of your window head. Counting the courses if its to scale the door is 24 courses high, should be 28 for a height of 2.1m.

 

[carryoncamping]

Carry, the building is supposed to be 24 1/2 bricks long.

I thought so.

I know if you add up the dimensions it comes to 24.36 bricks long. 20mm of perps has been lost with the dimensions, and it overall length should be 5502.5 instead of 4482.5. Set out at 5502.5 or call it 5500mm as 2.5mm wont make a difference! As I have said in earlier posts, linear gauge is most important to work brickwork.
Door is a wide one at 1002.5, (thats where the measurements have crept, 4 1/2 bricks wide opening = 1002.5 + perps EITHER side = 1020.5mm).

The same architect drew the extension plans for a neighbour he made their door 900mm. How much design change do the planning office allow? I'd have a thought the odd 20mm here or there is negligible.

I think my modified design makes more sense.
Click on image below:

Ps why is there 150mm soildiers above the door? It should be the same height of your window head. Counting the courses if its to scale the door is 24 courses high, should be 28 for a height of 2.1m.

The original house uses Imperial brick size. My exisiting door has 25 courses with approx. 84mm per course 25x84=2100mm (amazing ) So you're right the number of courses should be more.

Thing is I can't make the door higher as then you'd have to step down over the threshold. If you bring the window down it won't be in line with the existing window.

 

[tawelfryn]

Carry, your right. Your modified design is better, with a standard 910 opening. (who needs architects eh? )

Thing is I can't make the door higher as then you'd have to step down over the threshold. If you bring the window down it won't be in line with the existing window.

Im lost here, you have to have 2.1 high. So on the plans it looks like you got 24 courses (is this because he has drawn imperial courses?). 28 will take you to the head height of the window from what I can see, if its drawn metric.

 

[noseall]

for looks, you really ought to keep the head of the door and window in line.

you could do this by fitting a fan light to the top of the door, or someting similar.

 

[rangersman]

Don't divide by 225 - actually count bricks along the wall remembering where the 10mm mortar joint is/should be.....I get 23.5 bricks wide....

Can you tell me how you came to that figure? Will the window and door be located correctly with minimum disruption to stretcher bond? The std UK brick is 215mm long and mortar joints are approx. 10mm.

I did count 24.5 not 23.5 as I typed!

Seems like it's been explained by the brickies now though (I'm not one)

 

[carryoncamping]

for looks, you really ought to keep the head of the door and window in line.

you could do this by fitting a fan light to the top of the door, or someting similar.

Click on image to enlarge:


Looking at the existing house gives clues as to why the architect did what he did. Notice the soldiers above the window are 2 courses high and not the usual 3. Top of door is lower than window.

 

[carryoncamping]

You guys have got me really thinking that the original design of the extension is suspect.

Click image to see how the design will look, these are the actual bricks I'll use:


Even if I make a perfect job of bricklaying as per plan it might still look a b***er.