Is this correct????

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Hello,

I am currently trying to sort out our kitchen. I have chased in and flush mounted the sockets on one side of the room fine. On the other side the sockets are wired in reverse, ie: Brown to N, Blue to L, is this correct and why, out of interest? Secondly, I would like to switch two of these sockets for a dishwasher on one side of the sink and washing maching on the other side. Can I run my two supplies and wire them Blue to L1 and Brown to N1 above the worktop down to a socket below the worktop wired in the same way? Obviously with the load wired the same way from the switch. Would I being doing anything that might cause problems regarding Part P? I am simply adding rather than replacing a whole ring? All the wires will be chased vertically from the floor etc.

Many thanks for any help!!
 
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The wiring of the sockets is wrong,yes.


Would you not be best off getting a spark to come take a look, then all the worry and regs stuff is sorted ! He will test for continuity and polarity etc when the work is done.

Electrical work carried out in the kitchen is notifiable and comes within part P.
 
Well I sure will now!! I wasn't due to the fact that we had all the sockets re-wired and certificated a while back so didn't see the need until I found this little oddity!! Is there any immediate danger (although it's been like that for over two years!!!). This was supposedly an NICEIC reg company, why would they wire a socket like this??
 
The sockets certainly should not be wired as you say. They are not correct and require remedial action ASAP. As an added safeguard I would advise against using these sockets until the problem is rectified. Are these sockets on an RCD? Although an RCD will help in a L-E fault, a fuse (as in the plugtop fuse) should only ever be placed in the phase (Live) conductor.
 
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Danger is that the fuse is now on the neutral - could lead to a nasty situation if theres an earth fault to the casing of the plugged in appliance
shocked.gif
 
I sometimes wonder how some companies have the gall to get NICEIC accreditaton and seem to carry out tests from the comfort of their desk without ever visiting the premises, simply because of a rush to get an invoice out and also too much trust in their own staff. Why is it when the NIC want to do random inspections these firms get away with it time and time again. Am I correct in saying that these days the NIC inspectors now decide which jobs to inspect ? I know that most Elec. Contractors act responsibly but I find that a lot of building firms that offer a complete package of building trades mainly for property maintenance contracts do sometimes bend the rules.
 
Right, I'll get it checked out ASAP! Worrying though, we only had it re-wired as a requirement to rent out the flat whilst we were travelling, looks like we may have been at risk of electricuting our residents!! I assumed as this was an NICEIC reg company and we got a certificate for the work all would be well - I was wrong. How do I go about finding spmeone reputable to check it this time around!! Wish I had done this before the plastering, if it is a major task to rectify, how hard is it to pull through new wires, I used oval conduit everywhere but it's still a tight fit!!!

Thanks everyone!
 
Dont panic just yet my friend. It may be that a few minor wiring alterations may be needed. You could try a reputable company to come and carry out a thorough test and inspection. You'll probably find that the cables are in the right place but a few tweaks are needed with final connections. But it is best to be sure. If you have polarity wrong on a ring circuit then I suspect the spark didnt use a plug in tester on each socket prior to testing. Ive always done that in case I was daydreaming when connecting up...it happens....Its why we have testing !
 
Job_n_knock said:
Am I correct in saying that these days the NIC inspectors now decide which jobs to inspect ?

We have to present the NIC inspector with the contractor copy of every PIR, EIC, MEW certificate we have issued since his last visit. (he can tell if any are missing from the serial numbers) He will then pick jobs at ramdom, an go and inspect them.
 
Thanks for the help everyone, I will get an expert in!! Despite this set back, is my idea to wire in a 20 amp neon switch above the worktop into an unswitched socket below ok? Obviously I would wire it in correctly (2 supplies to L1 and N1 and the load off of L1 and L2). Maybe it was just an error, easily done but they still certified it!

Thanks again!!
 
Right, I took the cover off of the consumer unit, all the rings are wired correctly at this point so I think it must have been a bay day for the bloke that did it. I am going to re-wire the sockets correctly and have it all checked. Is my suggestion for the switched socket correct?

Thanks again!
 
I take it you mean an unfused 20A double-pole switch with neon above the worktop. Sounds good to me, but make sure you use the same size of cable (I expect 2.5mm2 if it's a ring, 4mm2 if it's a radial) for the run to the unswitched socket. You then need a fuse in the appliance plug (13A max, but check the manufacturer's instructions) and that should work fine.
 
Are you sure its done a brown fo N & blue for Phase?
different makes of sockets have the Ph & N terminals on the opposite side from the other and they usually reverse between the switched and unswitched versions also
 
Yeah I'm sure, all the sockets are the same make (and marked L and N for novices like me!). I have wired in the neon switches, working fine apart from one of the neons is not lighting up, will get a new switch and try that. Used 2.5 cable the same as everywhere else. Problem now is that we have no lights!!!! I've not touched anything to do with the lighting rings, fingers crossed it's a blown bulb that's tripped it (I just got a call at work from my girlfriend so i can't check at the moment!!!).

Thanks for the help.
 

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