Kitchen circuit - Is this allowed? (pic included)

[s999]

Sometimes its easier to draw a picture instead of explaining.

A washing machine is currently plugged into the single socket in the pic (on the left).

But I want to put a fridge next to it. So can I just turn the single socket into a double socket and plug the washing machine and fridge into them?

*pic removed*

 

[DESL]

Technically no problem but if you have washing machine running and it trips the RCD for some reason the fridge goes off as well.

 

[JohnD]

The picture you have drawn is not usual UK practice. Since the UK plug contains a fuse, it does not need to have an FCU before it.

That layout might have been used of the ring does not run as you think.

Turn off the power and see how many wires are connected to each terminal of the load, and to each terminal of the feed, side of the FCU.

Have you got a multimeter, and are you able to safely test the three cables going into the FCU for continuity and voltage?

Has the thing marked "fuse" got a switch on it? Is it above the worktop with the socket out of sight beneath the worktop?

 

[s999]

Thanks guys.

Yes the thing marked 'Fuse' has got a switch on it, and its above the worktop.

The sockets are all beneath the worktop. So if I want to switch the fridge/washing machine off then I'd do it from the Fuse switch above the worktop.

I've checked everything and it is installed exactly as I've drawn in the pictures. I've shown which wires are going in and out of each socket/fuse.

Two wires are going into the Fuse switch (from the main ring circuit)... and one spur wire is going out of it, into the single socket at the bottom.

 

[s999]

Have you got a multimeter, and are you able to safely test the three cables going into the FCU for continuity and voltage?

I haven't got a multimeter, but this was installed by a electrician so it should be ok right?

 

[JohnD]

...I've shown which wires are going in and out of each socket/fuse.

Two wires are going into the Fuse switch (from the main ring circuit)... and one spur wire is going out of it, into the single socket at the bottom.

By "wires" I meant the cores within each cable. Each cable is likely to contain three wires; a red, a black, and a bare/GreenAndYellow; or else a brown, a blue, and a bare/GreenAndYellow

I haven't got a multimeter, but this was installed by a electrician so it should be ok right?

The multimeter was to test continuity and voltage on the various wires, to see if the FCU is wired into the ring or if it is a fused spur (not on a ring). That is because the way it is shown in your diagram could be that.

...The sockets are all beneath the worktop... the Fuse switch above the worktop...

Some people use an FCU in this position so that you have an accessible switch for an inaccessible socket. There is however a better way to do it.

 

[s999]

By "wires" I meant the cores within each cable. Each cable is likely to contain three wires; a red, a black, and a bare/GreenAndYellow; or else a brown, a blue, and a bare/GreenAndYellow

The wires are all 3 core twin & earth 2.5mm.

Red, Black and Green/Yellow.

 

[s999]

There is however a better way to do it.

I think I know what this better way is.

You don't actually connect a 'plugged' socket do you? You just wire the cable of the fridge/washing machine straight into a wallplate, which then run to the switched Fuse right?

 

[DESL]

It was quite common to fit aFCU above the work top feeding a flex outlet behind washing machine this way the FCU could be used to isolate machine however with advent of moulded 13A plugs the machine manufacturers said it would invalidate warranty if moulded plug was removed. So flex outlets have been replaced with 13A sockets.

s999 your set up is exactly how I'd do it for any under worktop appliances that need isolation for maintenance or in an emergency.

 

[s999]

So its perfectly fine to have a double plug socket running from a single spur coming from one FCU switch?

 

[JohnD]

You can do.
That makes it a fused spur, and you are allowed to put a hundred sockets on it if you want to. Since it is fused at 13A the fuse will blow if you overload it, but this will not usually be a problem if you use the sockets for phone chargers, radios, table mixers, electric carving knives and other low current things. It will however blow if you use more than one oven/dishwasher/tumble drier/washing machine/George Foreman grill at the same time, and possibly from a toaster and a kettle or coffeemaker.

You mis-guessed my "better way".
Since the ideal number of fuses per appliance is one (not more, not less) it is more elegant to supply an under-counter (unswitched) socket through a 20A DP switch (not an FCU) above the worktop. Often with a neon.
It is very useful to have a plug and socket for your appliances rather than a flex outlet, as the plug can be easily and quickly pulled out when you want to move the appliance for cleaning or repair.

 

[s999]

It will however blow if you use more than one oven/dishwasher/tumble drier/washing machine/George Foreman grill at the same time, and possibly from a toaster and a kettle or coffeemaker.

I'll be connecting an integrated fridge and washing machine.

 

[securespark]

I agree with others who have posted here in the past about cutting plugs off NOT affecting the wty...

Some manufacturers admit in their instructions that sometimes this is necessary.

I would have an appliance under the 'top fed from a fused spur (so the fuse is accessible) but fit a 15A socket under so (as John says) there is only one fuse.

 

[RF Lighting]

I go for the 20A DP above the worktop, and 13A socket below. Saves faffing about canging plugtops etc, and if something has gone badly enough wrong to cause the fuse to blow, then chances are the appliance is going to need pulling out for repair anyway.

I like to use the 20A DP modules in a grid switch option to keep it all neat and tidy.

 

[DESL]

I was always taught that any appliance which is permanently connected is better connected into a spur rather than 13amp plug.
Especially ones with high loads as the build up of oxidisation on pins may cause problems. I was told that 13amp plugs are self cleaning when removed regularly as contacts in socket scrape pins on plug.
It seems plausible to me.....