Kitchen kickboard problems.

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The decorative featured oak veneer has separated from the mdf as water ingressed into the mdf due to water spillages and mopping the floor etc.
Installed 10 years ago. It was a prestige kitchen at the time and very expensive and this failure was not expected.

I brought them back to the guy who made and fitted them to have new ones made.
I wasn't speaking to the proprietor personally as he was busy on site but his worker at the manufacturing facility said they would not stand over them.
He suggested that the floor should not be wet.
I thought that being a kitchen thats not really possible.

I've asked for new ones to be made and I suggested that I could seal the bottom edge with a good quality varnish myself or alternatively their in house spraying specialist could seal the bottom edge with their 2 pack lacquer they use for finishing but the guy I was speaking too said it won't make any difference.

I guess if they admitted that sealing the edge would be beneficial then they are admitting liability for the failure.
Some other areas have also failed but as they seem integral parts of the cabinet I don't think they can be replaced. In another 10 years it will be very shoddy indeed .
And by that time the style of this kitchen will probably be back in fashion again.

Does any kitchen fitter seal the bottom edges of MDF veneer kickboards?
Or any integral part that makes contact with the floor?
Are water spillages a concern to you?
 
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Moisture and MDF doesn't mix in any circumstances but varnishing can't do any harm.
Consider sealing the plinths to the floor with silicone once installed.
John :)
 
That's a good idea about silicone. I just wish the kitchen fitter had done that.
 
The decorative featured oak veneer has separated from the mdf as water ingressed into the mdf due to water spillages and mopping the floor etc.
Installed 10 years ago. It was a prestige kitchen at the time and very expensive and this failure was not expected.
Hmmm, 10 years old? And you expect them to still look like new whilst having a wet floor? Frankly I'm not surprised that some delamination has occurred. I'd say that for that type of plinth cover (MDF) 10 years is actually quite reasonable - many plinth covers are looking decidedly rough because of mopping, etc before they are that old. Fortunately the materials used in plinth covers (100 to 150mm edge-banded MFC in most cases) isn't that expensive. If you want something really waterproof then you can get all-plastic plinth covers which last a lot longer even when constantly soaked. We use them on student accommodation for that reason

I suggested that I could seal the bottom edge with a good quality varnish myself or alternatively their in house spraying specialist could seal the bottom edge with their 2 pack lacquer they use for finishing but the guy I was speaking too said it won't make any difference.

I guess if they admitted that sealing the edge would be beneficial then they are admitting liability for the failure.
The failure is because you've soaked them for the last 10 years and I'd have to say that the bench worker there is probably correct. They aren't admitting responsibility for the failure - because the items are time expired! (and I suspect the chap was trying to be polite) Would you expect a new car to last as long without some signs of wear and tear, I wonder?

Does any kitchen fitter seal the bottom edges of MDF veneer kickboards?
Or any integral part that makes contact with the floor?
Plinth covers, not normally, no - decor panels, yes. Sealing the plinth covers to the floor means that you can't remove them easily if you need access to anything behind them (plumbing, wiring, etc) and will trap stagnant water in the event of a flood (man made or natural), especially if you have a laminate or stone floor which does not extend fully to the walls behind the units and so creates in effect a small pool beneath the units. Up here we have had extensive flooding in the last 12 months which underlines the need for removeable plinth covers. For those reasons sealing to the floor is generally not a good idea.

Some other areas have also failed but as they seem integral parts of the cabinet I don't think they can be replaced. In another 10 years it will be very shoddy indeed .
It depends on what has failed. Runners, hinges, handles, etc can fail over time and replacement isn't difficult. Drawer boxes don't last forever and shelves can get marked or have the edgings damaged, but again those issues aren't biggies. Just what issues do you have? There may be simpe solutions

And by that time the style of this kitchen will probably be back in fashion again
That or you could have done a face lift by replacing the plinth covrs, doors, handles and decor panels and maybe the worktops (a reskin). Most cabinets are good for 20 plus years. Ability to reskin depends on the style of kitchen. Better quality kitchens with solid wood dors, end panels, plinth covers, etc can simply be repainted
 
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On a previous kitchen I had, the plinth was supplied with a slide-on plastic channel for the bottom edge, with a flexible fin to seal against the floor. I suppose it was intended to protect against a damp floor, for example from damp mopping, and to hide minor irregularity of the floor. And to stop crumbs or spills getting under the cabs.

If the floor was actually washed down wet, you'd need a plastic or metal plinth (or leave it open and mop underneath).

Edit
like this, though I think mine was colourless translucent

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5m-brow...hash=item58d0eadb94:m:m-wGddv-q0yPxxMHEDEyrLQ
I think I'll order some
 
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Thanks for the extensive reply J&K.
The other parts that have failed are rounded posts (not sure of the correct terminology, decorative transition corners maybe?) which make contact with the floor also. They are delaminating where water has ingressed into them.
I thought they were solid wood but they are obviously cheap mdf with a veneer or oak effect laminate of some sort.

They weren't sealed at the bottom either by the installer hence they have failed.
And they look very difficult to try and replace.
 
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A photograph might help identify these pieces. Corner post is a stock item and I know of several manufacturers who supply it (to the trade) in 3 to 6 metre lengths, so in other words it should be relatively eaily replaceable
 
Varnished my plinths on install and they lasted 20 years, helped by floor polish which was mopped onto slate tiled floor. By the time I ripped them out they were a few mm thicker with floor polish [my Mrs is a good scrubber].
 

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