Kitchen Wall Unit Fixing Help

[olddrive345]

My builder tried to prepare the kitchen walls for the wall units but ended up fixing batterns behind the plasterboard too high, about 30/50mm. I am now thinking If I can get away with installing the units using the supplied brackets just into the plasterboard (decent drywall fixings), use them for the fine adjustments and then install L brackets up to the cross timbers once everything is aligned to take the weights of the units. I am trying to avoid butchering my new walls! The image attached is obviously before boarding and plaster

 

[foxhole]

Mark up your bracket positions and cut out 100mm plasterboard strip across your wall at top of cupboards , replace with same dimension ply or osb. You then have something to fix too.Cupboards will hide plate.
Builder should have lined entire wall with osb then you can fix anywhere .

 

[JohnD]

I strongly recommend you use cabinet hanging rail, not individual brackets. You can screw it to the uprights, or into the blockwork with plugs and longer screws.

As well as being very strong, it will bridge over any awkward spots where you can't fix, such as pipes, cables or gappy joints, and it makes it easy to align and level the cabs. You can easily reposition the cabinets from side to side if necessary. It is widely sold in two metre lengths for ease of transport, but I got some 3m long. I like to prime it and paint to match the wall before fixing.

 

[Murdochcat]

Tell the builder to correct his mistake, at his cost

 

[Notch7]

I strongly recommend you use cabinet hanging rail, not individual brackets. You can screw it to the uprights, or into the blockwork with plugs and longer screws.

As well as being very strong, it will bridge over any awkward spots where you can't fix, such as pipes, cables or gappy joints, and it makes it easy to align and level the cabs. You can easily reposition the cabinets from side to side if necessary. It is widely sold in two metre lengths for ease of transport, but I got some 3m long. I like to prime it and paint to match the wall before fixing.

View attachment 333956 View attachment 333957

Ive always bought this when fitting kitchens

its great for timber stud and great anyway because you can lift the cabinet up into rough position then slide it across to suit -no worries about getting the short brackets in place

its also good for avoiding electric cable drops

 

[opps]

I strongly recommend you use cabinet hanging rail, not individual brackets. You can screw it to the uprights, or into the blockwork with plugs and longer screws.

As well as being very strong, it will bridge over any awkward spots where you can't fix, such as pipes, cables or gappy joints, and it makes it easy to align and level the cabs. You can easily reposition the cabinets from side to side if necessary. It is widely sold in two metre lengths for ease of transport, but I got some 3m long. I like to prime it and paint to match the wall before fixing.

View attachment 333956 View attachment 333957

+1 for the rails.

I routinely use them when fitting kitchens in Victorian houses with old horsehair plaster.

 

[olddrive345]

Thanks for the feedback. Put cuts of 35x60 mm timber between the vertical plasterboard battens. Can I screw the brackets just into these (35 mm thick) or should I go through the wood and into the block behind?

 

[chirpychippy]

Before you do anything Google "Corefix" Screwfix sell them.

They are designed to span the gap between Dot and Dab plasterboard and the blockwork wall behind. Or in your case a batonned wall.

 

[opps]

Before you do anything Google "Corefix" Screwfix sell them.

They are designed to span the gap between Dot and Dab plasterboard and the blockwork wall behind. Or in your case a batonned wall.

I have used corefix in the past on dot and dab walls. They work well.

However the internal metal sleeve (that helps to distribute the downward load) is between 25 and 30mm long. The OP seems to have 35mm thick batons, add 9.5mm plasterboard and the metal sleeve is doing nothing. That means that they are no better than regular frame fixings that (substantially) cost much less.

Now that I think about it, I wonder how much of gimmick they are. Their USP is the metal collar inside the nylon sleeve. The screw is metal though. Personally, I cannot recall coming across a screw in dot and dab that had bent.