The oven and microwave are together, so I'm thinking they could share a radial wired in 4mm on a 32amp mcb.
But what does your electrician think?
He will be the one certifying that he was responsible for the design, construction and testing of the installation, so it's what he thinks that matters.
Does this seem a reasonable solution? There are two spare ways on the RCD side of the CU to support these new radials.
Why not let your electrician do the job you are paying her to do. He is the competent one.
Just to clarify, I won't be doing anything - the electrician will be doing it all but I want to be sure that a proper job is done.
If you don't trust him to do a proper job then find someone else.
In fact, trying to tell him how to do his job because you asked about things on an internet DIY forum is pretty much guaranteed to p*** him off so much that you probably won't get a good job done.
As ColJack identified, the whole purpose of using 4mm and 32amp mcb's was to get away from being limited to 20 amps at each circuit. Each circuit would draw approx 26 amps, not the full 32.
If the circuits were on 20 amp mcb's I'm going to spend a lot of time wandering into the garage to reset them
Don't worry - your electrician knows the characteristics of overcurrent devices, and about the cyclic loads in kitchens - just let him get on with it.
I've also been told that above bench switches are not required for the appliances - I'm in favour of them though as I don't want to have to empty the cupboard just to switch off an appliance when it burts into flames.
Then tell your electrician that's what you want him to do.
And look into buying better quality appliances - they should not burst into flames.
Grid switches were exactly what I had in mind.
Then put them on the spec you give to your electrician.
It's not a problem that one grid switch may switch from more than one circuit supply is it?
Your electrician will know the regulations concerning that, and he will ensure that his work complies.
What options are there on what can be siwtched?
Anything up to the rated load for the switches - usually 10A or 20A.
I'm thinking the grid switch could switch an unswitched socket or an unswitched FSU - is there any other way it could be done using grid switches?
Flex outlet plates or BS 546 sockets, but then you'd need fuse modules in the grid plate.