Leaky motorized valve
- Thread starter Rob F
- Start date
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with some adjustables...can you just nip it a bit tighter.....they should be 22mm compression and work by tightning an olive to make a seal...try it when its actually leaking.
it some times helps to undo it 1/2 a turn and then go for the extra 1/4 turn.
it some times helps to undo it 1/2 a turn and then go for the extra 1/4 turn.
Thanks for your quick reply. The blob of water appears on the toggle on the underside of the valve, which makes me think that it might be the seal on the operating shaft thats leaking. I dont know if this can be replaced. The leak itself is not too bad but obviously water on the electrics is not good. All the compression joints are ok.
C
compheat
No you cant repair. sounds like new valve.
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Rob, as you suspected, you need a new valve.
There are quite a few past topics to help guide you in doing this, if you need help. If it's a tiny leak then you might want to consider waiting for either Springtime or a brief warm spell - this week it's going to get pretty cold and miserable!
Post back here if you can't find enough helpful topics elsewhere.
There are quite a few past topics to help guide you in doing this, if you need help. If it's a tiny leak then you might want to consider waiting for either Springtime or a brief warm spell - this week it's going to get pretty cold and miserable!
Post back here if you can't find enough helpful topics elsewhere.
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Wait a minute.
compheat wrote
Yes you can.
Lots of valves can be repaired. (honeywell,sunvic,danfoss for example)
In fact its much easier to repair than fanny about trying to get old valves disconnected from pipework with no play in it.
compheat wrote
Yes you can.
Lots of valves can be repaired. (honeywell,sunvic,danfoss for example)
In fact its much easier to repair than fanny about trying to get old valves disconnected from pipework with no play in it.
Perhaps, but do you have any hard figures on the ratio of pipework with some/zero play in it?scatmanjohn said:
In my experience it's about one in fifty, so in the vast majority of cases it's quicker and easier to fit a new valve, with the added benefit of having a new valve.
C
compheat
So Scatman how does one repair a leaking gland on a motorised valve?? by the time you've drained the system and dismantelled the valve to replace the O ring seal (which might leak) you'd be better off replacing the complete unit at least that way you can guarrantee the job 
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I wouldn't just change just the o ring but use a proper manufacturers service kit. NEVER had one leak
Honeywells can be done in less than 30 mins. And whats all this about draining down the system. Get yourself a bung kit.(works 9/10 times)
The body is just a lump of brass Why pay for a new one when there is nothing wrong with the old one.
Honeywells can be done in less than 30 mins. And whats all this about draining down the system. Get yourself a bung kit.(works 9/10 times)
The body is just a lump of brass Why pay for a new one when there is nothing wrong with the old one.
Well for Honeywell I'm with scatman, for difficult installations the answer is the lower part shown here, for less than a tenner. Add that to the price of a head and you aren't far off the price of a whole valve it's true.
With Danfoss etc you can take the bits from a new body and get them into the old one, easy if you've practiced first
Wish I could have done that on a Tower I had to replace recently. Apart from there being no play in the pipes, the threads on the old nuts were too tight to fit on a replacement valve - I tried 3 different makes. To be clear, the threads were meant to be the same, new nuts were very loose on the old valve, old nuts wouldn't go more than a turn on the new valve.
So I had to cut the pipes and put new bits in with Slip Couplings and new nuts. All fine except for the 30mm stub on the cylinder fitting - no visible olive and no easy removal of the fittings gummed up and tight on the cylinder. A suggestion from DP came to the rescue - inserted small bits of 22mm pipe into the old valve, and screwed the "problem" nut up onto the old valve. Started with 3mm - this pulled the olive towards the end of the stub by 3mm. When I got to about 18mm the olive was transferred off the end of the 30mm stub onto the inserted bit. Then I could use new nut and olive. Took a while but saved the day - probably a well known trick, surprised I hadn't seen it before, hope it helps someone else.
Before someone yells "Olive Puller" - the threads on motorised valves are different!
With Danfoss etc you can take the bits from a new body and get them into the old one, easy if you've practiced first
Wish I could have done that on a Tower I had to replace recently. Apart from there being no play in the pipes, the threads on the old nuts were too tight to fit on a replacement valve - I tried 3 different makes. To be clear, the threads were meant to be the same, new nuts were very loose on the old valve, old nuts wouldn't go more than a turn on the new valve.
So I had to cut the pipes and put new bits in with Slip Couplings and new nuts. All fine except for the 30mm stub on the cylinder fitting - no visible olive and no easy removal of the fittings gummed up and tight on the cylinder. A suggestion from DP came to the rescue - inserted small bits of 22mm pipe into the old valve, and screwed the "problem" nut up onto the old valve. Started with 3mm - this pulled the olive towards the end of the stub by 3mm. When I got to about 18mm the olive was transferred off the end of the 30mm stub onto the inserted bit. Then I could use new nut and olive. Took a while but saved the day - probably a well known trick, surprised I hadn't seen it before, hope it helps someone else.
Before someone yells "Olive Puller" - the threads on motorised valves are different!
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softus wrote:
1, When a new diaphragm is required on a combi dv or flow switch etc, do you change the whole valve or fit a service kit (don't say valve please)
2, Its on them all. How do you think honeywell get the bits inside. "Beam Them In" (would you like the part No for the kits. its good fun)
3, I was thinking of primatics, which are not very happy if you try to bung the system. So instead of beaming out the water i would just drain the water out like everyone else
1, When a new diaphragm is required on a combi dv or flow switch etc, do you change the whole valve or fit a service kit (don't say valve please)
2, Its on them all. How do you think honeywell get the bits inside. "Beam Them In"
(would you like the part No for the kits. its good fun)3, I was thinking of primatics, which are not very happy if you try to bung the system. So instead of beaming out the water i would just drain the water out like everyone else
Fair point.scatmanjohn said:
Touché!scatmanjohn said:2, Its on them all. How do you think honeywell get the bits inside. "Beam Them In"
You're right; I was wrong.scatmanjohn said:3, I was thinking of primatics, which are not very happy if you try to bung the system. So instead of beaming out the water i would just drain the water out like everyone else
C
compheat
Point taken SCATMAN I never use bungs because i dont trust them. if any thing goes wrong your in the S###.
I never use bungs because i dont trust them. if any thing goes wrong your in the S###.DIYnot Local
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