I'm certainly open minded with all of these sorts of things and have a few bits of 'ripped out' kinetic kit available to play with or use as and when required. I nearly looked at it for my garden lighting but in the end I opted for ELV control as there was already an 8 core alarm type cable in place and copious numbers of relays & bases in stock. One of the things I've not yet found is kinetic kit to perform a 'slave action' otherwise it might have been a £200 different story.
LED coving wiring assistance - using lighting circuit and switch if possible.
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Have you got a link to the housing estate problems
No I don't have, only speaking to people who lived there.
If I have the info correct there were many thousands of them and a limited number of codes so they were being false switched
Thank you CB for taking the time to offer an alternative solution, but as Sunray indicated I have everything there to do it with a 2 gang switch at a lower cost.
Could I ask for a little more guidance please.
With the triple and earth cable I assume the brown will carry the permanent live to the switch, I then bridge the com points in the back of the switch and use the grey and black wires to carry the two switch lives back into the loft?
Then I need to add red or brown tape to the grey and black wires to indicate they are lives?
Could I ask for a little more guidance please.
With the triple and earth cable I assume the brown will carry the permanent live to the switch, I then bridge the com points in the back of the switch and use the grey and black wires to carry the two switch lives back into the loft?
Then I need to add red or brown tape to the grey and black wires to indicate they are lives?
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Correct. But sleeving is better as it doesn't go gooey over time! I use small brown cable ties to indicate SW lives. You might want to put one bit of sleeve one one cable but two shorter bits on the other to make it more obvious in the future.
yes, that's all you have to do
Thank you both for your replies, much appreciated.
One final question linked to this, I plan to cut off the plug from the LEDs to hardwire it in (the driver is separate to the plug), this means I'm removing the 3a fuse from the plug. Would it be sensible to put a fused switch in the loft to maintain the 3a fuse within the circuit?
One final question linked to this, I plan to cut off the plug from the LEDs to hardwire it in (the driver is separate to the plug), this means I'm removing the 3a fuse from the plug. Would it be sensible to put a fused switch in the loft to maintain the 3a fuse within the circuit?
One solution could be to install a 13A socket instead of hardwiring. it could be anywhere along the tripple &E
However I wouldn't think there would be any issue with relying on the 6A MCB.
I am extremely grateful for your help Sunray and it is likely I'm not understanding your suggestion here, but I thought putting a socket on a lighting circuit was a no no?
Obviously keeping the plug attached to the LEDs would maintain my warranty.
Obviously keeping the plug attached to the LEDs would maintain my warranty.
No it is perfectly acceptable and expressly permitted in the current regulations despite some people having an unjustified very strong opinion against them.
Although there is no requirement to do so, it is a good idea to lable it something like "LIGHTING CIRCUIT" or "MAX LOAD 3A"
For what it's worth: I have 4 in my lofts and none are labled.
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