Led light Fitting not going off

[Glyn1959]

Hi, I have just replaced a traditional fluorescent strip light for an led one in my garage. All seems ok but when I switch off the brightness goes instantly but a feint light remains! Is this normal? Will this go over time or should it be instant? I have checked and double checked the wiring.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is it a normal simple mechanical on/off switch?

Do you have 2-way switching?

 

[Glyn1959]

Yes I do

 

[Glyn1959]

Sorry I only read half your post. Yes normal 2 way switches

 

[ban-all-sheds]

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/led-downlight-remaining-on.476073/

 

[Glyn1959]

Ok, a very technical fix for what I thought was a simple fitting swap. Take a look at the attached photo of the fitting I removed. Is the small white unit with 2 black wires a capacitor? If so could I attach to the led cable connectors to solve the problem?

 

[FrodoOne]

Ok, a very technical fix for what I thought was a simple fitting swap. Take a look at the attached photo of the fitting I removed. Is the small white unit with 2 black wires a capacitor? If so could I attach to the led cable connectors to solve the problem?

A similar capacitor is basically what is contained in this device http://updates.clipsal.com/clipsalonline/Files/Brochures/W0001507.pdf

It, or something similar, should be available from Schneider Electric - which owns Clipsal.

 

[Glyn1959]

Thanks for the advice

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is the small white unit with 2 black wires a capacitor?

Yes.

If so could I attach to the led cable connectors to solve the problem?

It will cost nothing to try.

 

[Glyn1959]

Ok I will give it a go next chance i get.
Just curious, but why would there be the need for a capacitor on the old style fluorescent fitting in the first place as from what I have been advised there would not be an "after glow" issue?

 

[bernardgreen]

Just curious, but why would there be the need for a capacitor on the old style fluorescent fitting

To correct the power factor. The current though a fluorescent lamp is not in phase with the supply voltage (*) and as a result the electricity meter does not accurately measure the power taken by the lamp. The capacity brings the current more in phase with the voltage.

(*) peak current does not flow at the same time as peak voltage and current flows when the voltage goes through the zero point on the AC waveform

 

[Glyn1959]

Hi, a late reply I know but I have tried a capacitor (Screwfix) and a supressor (Maplin) but with no joy.
Before I start changing the wiring, would changing to a one-way switch solve the problem?

 

[winston1]

The current though a fluorescent lamp is not in phase with the supply voltage (*) and as a result the electricity meter does not accurately measure the power taken by the lamp.

The electricity meter does in fact accurately measure the power taken. But having the current not in phase means the current is greater than need be and the subsequent higher rated cables and switchgear required.

 

[bernardgreen]

The electricity meter does in fact accurately measure the power taken

Can you provide a reference of other source in support of that statement. That the phase angle between voltage and current waveforms does not affect the accuracy of the measurement.

Maybe modern meters can compensate for the errors in measurement that power factor introduces to the process.

 

[winston1]

It is well known that electricity meters measure watts not VA. Try putting a big capacitor across one of your sockets with all other loads disconnected. The meter won't read anything.