LED TV's drop out when desktop fridge pumps kicks off

[[insert name here]]

I have owned a 32" LG TV old style not LED (CCFL backlit) all has been fine - 2 moths ago i got a 55" Samsung and every time my desktop fridge in the kitchen would turn OFF (might be on but sounds like OFF) the LED TV will cut out for 1 second and come right back on...

Now this samsung broke twice by other means and i was given an OLED LGB8 and it does the same and im worried sick.

this is obviously some sort of 'surge' that its built-in protection is helping it gainst, my worry is that its gunna cause issues later - nothing happens on my PC, BUT, its on a 4 way gang surge protector (about 10-year-old) - should I get one for my TV? theres obviously a bigger fault at hand more here i think - dodgy fridge? its new

thanks

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Does it actually turn off, or do you simply loose the picture for a short while?

 

[333rocky333]

I got called to a pub once where the picture went blocky when one of the three handryers was used, when checked the brushes were sparking madly.
We recomended changing the unit, not sure of the outcome

 

[loopy66]

The Samsung TV in my son's room would go black for a second or two randomly. I remember someone saying once that they can loose sync, for some reason I can't remember, when using certain HDMI cables. I changed the HDMI cable and it never happened again.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Is this only when streaming iPlayer catch up stuff over Wi-Fi?

 

[FrodoOne]

I have owned a 32" LG TV old style not LED (CCFL backlit) all has been fine - 2 moths ago i got a 55" Samsung and every time my desktop fridge in the kitchen would turn OFF (might be on but sounds like OFF) the LED TV will cut out for 1 second and come right back on...

Now this samsung broke twice by other means and i was given an OLED LGB8 and it does the same and im worried sick.

this is obviously some sort of 'surge' that its built-in protection is helping it gainst, my worry is that its gunna cause issues later - nothing happens on my PC, BUT, its on a 4 way gang surge protector (about 10-year-old) - should I get one for my TV? theres obviously a bigger fault at hand more here i think - dodgy fridge? its new

Your PC is probably protected by one or more "Ferrite Beads" built into its leads.
I suggest that you try one or more suitably sized ferrite beads on the power leads of both the TV and the fridge.

(A suitably sized ferrite bead on any other leads connected directly to the TV concerned may also be necessary.)

You might to wish to try the experiment of a ferrite bead on the power lead to the fridge and TV separately, to see if one is sufficient in either place.
If either one works, I would suggest that you still use both.

See
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=ferrite+beads&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
and
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

A ferrite bead or ferrite choke is a passive electric component that suppresses high-frequency noise in electronic circuits. It is a specific type of electronic choke. Ferrite beads employ high-frequency current dissipation in a ferrite ceramic to build high-frequency noise suppression devices. Ferrite beads may also be called blocks, cores, rings, EMI filters, or chokes.

 

[bernardgreen]

Ferrite clamps such as THESE are very good for blocking high frequency noise from noisy electrical motors and switched mode power supplies from reaching the protected equipment. They work even better if there is somewhere for the blocked energy to go. In most case this blocked noise goes capacitively coupled to the earth conductor if it is there ( as in three core flex )

What ferrites cannot stop is a voltage dip cause by the high current taken by a motor when it starts.

The power supply module in the TV may be "de-stabilised" by voltage dips and shuts down to recover stability so as not to damage the TV.

Does the TV shut down completely or go to blank screen ( ie loss of picture ) ? Loss of picture only can be ( as mentioned ) caused by loss of synch when the signal from the aerial has been distorted / disturbed. This can be caused by mains voltage dips changing the potential of the screen in the TV's aerial socket. The change of potential causes current to flow in the aerial cable screen which affects the signal in the central core.

 

[FrodoOne]

"insert name here" wrote about the problem happening when the fridge turned OFF (as he believes).

2 moths ago i got a 55" Samsung and every time my desktop fridge in the kitchen would turn OFF (might be on but sounds like OFF) the LED TV will cut out for 1 second and come right back on...

What ferrites cannot stop is a voltage dip cause by the high current taken by a motor when it starts.

But, they can stop the HF "interference", which might be heard as a "click" on AM radio.

Loss of picture only can be ( as mentioned ) caused by loss of synch when the signal from the aerial has been distorted / disturbed. This can be caused by mains voltage dips changing the potential of the screen in the TV's aerial socket. The change of potential causes current to flow in the aerial cable screen which affects the signal in the central core.

Why would the "Mains voltage dips" cause the potential at the screen (co-axial shield) in the TVs aerial socket to change?
If the TV's Power Cable is 3 wire, would not any "chassis" - and, thus the co-axial shield of the aerial be maintained at Earth potential.
Even if the TV's Power Cable is 2 wire, it is almost certain that the TV would be using a Switch Mode Power Supply (with a bridge rectifier and a storage capacitor at the input to the "switch"), which supplies are designed to adjust their output to varying/different voltages - and the secondary of the relatively high frequency transformer in the SMPS would not be connected to either the Line or Neutral of the input supply.

If any current did flow (to where?) in the co-axial shield, would not a suitable ferrite bead on this cable also likely be of benefit?

These ferrite beads are cheap enough and well worth trying, starting with the power cord of the fridge.

My only personal experience with using a pair of these ferrite beads was to use two on a pair of Cat 6 cables, which were used (after a converter) to send a "HDMI" signal from PVRs and a HDMI "switch" to a remote reverse converter to provide the "HDMI" signal for a TV in another room. These cables run in the loft space for about 10 m, in parallel with but separated from various power and light cables by at least 500 mm.
Without the ferrite beads in situ there was a "clunk" in the sound and brief loss of picture most times (but not always) when the refrigerator started.
With them in situ there has since been no problem.

 

[bernardgreen]

Why would the "Mains voltage dips" cause the potential at the screen (co-axial shield) in the TVs aerial socket to change?
If the TV's Power Cable is 3 wire, would not any "chassis" - and, thus the co-axial shield of the aerial be maintained at Earth potential.

In the case of a 2 wire supply ( no earth ) the appliance "floats" around the mid point potential between Live and Neutral held there only by ( hopefully ) high impedance stray capacitive coupling. Hence the 0 volt of the appliance's chassis is about 120 volts when nothing else is connected. This expains the "buzz" or "tingle" that some people cab feel when lightly touching a portable appliance that has no Earth in its supply.

The screen of the coax to the aerial is connected to the chassis and has some stray capacity along it's length to Earth, when the chassis potential changes at high frequency the stray capacity allows current to flow in the screen.

would not a suitable ferrite bead on this cable also likely be of benefit?

I cannot recall if a ferrite clamp or ring on an aerial feeder will impede noise current in the screen without affecting the wanted signal in the central core.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

I cannot recall if a ferrite clamp or ring on an aerial feeder will impede noise current in the screen without affecting the wanted signal in the central core.

It really should - done it lots of times.

 

[[insert name here]]

Does it actually turn off, or do you simply loose the picture for a short while?

this, just a second the picture goes off... my PC and all its stuff is on a surge protector

 

[[insert name here]]

happened a couple of times today and ****ing me off lol... im unsure but it MAY be HDMI only (having read a post above about changing it)- i have to use a 5M cable AND it runs right along the power (FLAT RIBBON) to the 4 way gang (from behind the TV to PC) around 2.5 meters- so THAT must be the issue you think?

I will watch to see if it happens on apps

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

It's likely not power as such because TVs are just computers these days and take ~10 sec to boot up if they really stop working. I'd be looking at the ferrite ring solution, but I can't tell you what exact physical solution is available these days. Last time I fixed a neighbour's hifi, I got some old ferrite rings from stores at work, and threaded his speaker wires through them a few turns. (I had an amateur radio transmitter at the time.) He was very happy with the result.

 

[[insert name here]]

aye thanks, guys I will get some beads - i dont use terrestrial TV or Co-Ax cable - just Smart TV or PC on HDMI1

wont affect the 4K detail would it? lol

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

not at all.