Lockshield Valve Question

[gavman99]

A few months back we had a leak in a heating pipe so we called a plumber who had to take a chunk of plasterboard off the wall just behind the lock shield valve. Turns out the push fit connector hadn't been pushed in properly.

Anyway, he fixed that but when he left, the plumber asked us if we were going to fix the hole and decorate anytime soon. We said we would be, so the plumber said he wouldn't fill up the radiator as it would need to be taken off the wall when we were going to decorate. This was early summer so no issues with no heating in the kitchen.

Needless to say the hole still hasn't been fixed and won't be anytime soon, but now its getting cold so I want to switch the radiator on again. I opened up the TRV to max and bled the radiator so now its full of water.

But when I switched on the heating it wasn't getting hot. I quickly figured it was because the lock shield valve was still closed.

However I'm not sure what I need to turn. I've put a link to some pictures to help me explain.

All help appreciated. Thanks.

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4065/photobe.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3162/photo1en.jpg

 

[kevplumb]

turn square on the spindle with an adjustable wrench anti clock (A)
dont turn the hex bit

try 1 turn to start with

 

[gavman99]

Sorry....links now on original post.

 

[OLLIE20]

where

 

[gavman99]

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4065/photobe.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3162/photo1en.jpg

 

[fine tune]

put the hex nut back on first and then turn .a. the 1/4:inch spindle anticlockwise fully open and then nip the hex nut up slightly

 

[D_Hailsham]

The nut, A in your first picture, seals the spindle, so you don't get leaks past the rubber O-ring, round the spindle A, in the second picture. Do it up just enough to allow you to turn the spindle. If you get leaks, tighten it slowly until they stop. If no success you will have to strip down the valve and replace the O-ring(s). You turn the spindle A in the second picture to adjust the flow. The valve at the other end should be fully open. If it is a TRV, remove the head while adjusting the LS valve.

Kevin suggested starting with the LS valve open one turn: that's as good a starting point as any. What you are trying to achieve is the same temperature drop between the two rad pipes as you get on the other rads. Ideally you need thermometers, but feeling the pipes is better than nothing. If the difference is too great, open the valve no more than an eighth of a turn, wait 10 minutes for the temperature to stabilize, and check again. If the difference is too small, close the LS valve an eighth of a turn.

 

[kevplumb]

Kevin suggested starting with the LS valve open one turn

good job it's sunday

 

[electronicsuk]

I'm surprised that nobody has pointed out that you may also need to re-pressurise the system from the filling loop on your boiler, if it's sealed and not open vented.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Kevin suggested starting with the LS valve open one turn

good job it's sunday

Lapsus styli.

Maybe you would prefer KP - unless it drives you nuts.