Whose doing the board work? Which option, spacing out or bonding before the skim? Either way, your spread will know what to do if he's any good. But as I said previously, my preferred option would be;That is an option, how much should I leave between the existing wall level and the new wall level, I was hoping that the plasterer could make up the difference without the need of packing etc.
If you just board out to existing level, skim & blend, depending on how good your spread is, the chances are you will probably still see the join & where the door was. Even if he does a tremendous blending job, there is still a big risk it will crack around the original door opening due to differential expansion where the two dissimilar materials meet. To prevent cracks, the joins must be taped that will require blending out over 300 -500mm if your not going to see it, not easy even for the experienced; if your buying a spread in, it’s quicker, easier & probably no more expensive to skim the whole wall.I would use Bonding to fill out flush with the surrounding wall, tape the joins (3 overlapping layers) & Multi skim the whole wall.
Most definitely the best way to do it but you should still tie the block work into the main wall. Spread will (should) chip back the original plaster & fill out to surrounding wall level with base plaster, tape & then re-skim the whole wall. Done properly, you will never see it or hear it, as opposed to a stud infill; I’m something of a “tap, tap” maniac when let loose on a prospective property purchase.Do you suggest that I abandon the partition wall idea to prevent the cracking possibilities and revert back to blockwork and traditional plaster
Rewind a bit; don’t stud/board out to the surrounding wall level, chip back the plaster to the blocks/bricks all around the door opening around 200mm, fit the studs so the boarding overlaps the blocks (a few daps of board adhesive or grab adhesive required here) & butt as close as possible to the original plaster (original plaster depth will dictate board thickness used). Fill any gaps & then base coat out to original wall level (over the boards & blocks); tape the joins & finish skim the whole wall. Done properly, the success rate is high but nothing is guaranteed however & there is always a danger it will crack along the join where the original block wall meets the plasterboard. Blocking in is still best &, to be honest, not much if any more work.or would reskimming the whole wall prevent this from happening if I brought the plasterboard level to the original level as suggested?
Having thought about it it's obvious that different materials will behave differently and lead to cracks. Blockwork it is then, don't want to be forever filling in cracks
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