mirror doors

[MrBen]

Hi. i am looking to fit about 3 mirror wardrobe doors in my bedroom. i am gonna build a wardrobe near my chimney, where it sticks out. Is this a hard job to do? i have seen some in do-it-all for about £40 each, but what other stuff would i need?
I am also looking to replace two 'old' sliding doors in my house. can i just stick any door on or do i need all new fixings and stuff?
any one who has done anything like this before, know what doors to get.
I dont want no expensive alternatives
cheers...

 

[Scrit]

Fundamentally a wardrobe, like most furniture, is a box. so yYou'll need to build a carcass (box) to attach the doors and hanging rails to. The simplest way is to build the carcass from 18mm MDF. The simplest way to cut your parts out is to get the timber merchant to cut the sheet material to size for you and then joint it together using mod blocs or simlar fixings. To enable him to do this you will need to design your wardrobe and produce a components list (called a cut list).

Have you done anything like this before and do you have any tools?

What type of sliding doors are they? Do they slide into the wall? Are they atached to the front of a wardrobe? More information needed, please.

Scrit

 

[JohnD]

When you said three sliding mirror doors, I visualised that you meant a row of them to wall off an end of the bedroom, with various shelves and hangers behind (I have these in one room). That way, you fix the runners to the floor and ceiling, with a closer to the wall at each side - no real "wardrobe" is built.

 

[noseall]

b&q sell stanley mirror sliding doors. piece of cake to fit and spare parts are readily available.
you can either fix the base rail directly to the floor or fix a piece of say 100mmx 18mm and fix the base rail to that.
then you fix a header timber 2260mm (89 inches) up from the base rail, then fix the top rail to the underside.
fill in the gap (betwix top rail and ceiling) with timber or plasterboard.
then clip in the doors.
if you don't have more than say 90 inches clearance from floor to ceiling, forget stanley.

 

[MrBen]

Cheers lads. Thats what i mean JohnD. 3 mirror doors with a rail behind it and some shelves. the shelves will be built in front of my chimney (about a doors width). The rail will go from where my chimney sticks out, to the wall with a window on it. (if that makes any sense). I live in a terraced house. I havent done anything like this before Scrit , but i am a fast learner. . My ceiling is prettty high actually, so it looks like i will need some sort of board from the top of the door to the ceiling. When you say i fix a header timber to the top of the door noseall, do i have to build a frame round it? it wont be going from one wall to the other.

 

[noseall]

like i said earlier, you are trying to achieve a gap of 89 inches.
so always start from the floor up.
i fixed a length of 100mmx18mm planed timber right across the floor first ensuring i packed out any dips in the floor first.
you need this timber to run straight and fairly level.
i then measured up 89 inches up and put a mark on the wall at each end.
this gave me the finished height that i needed to achieve.
i then fixed a 100x 50mm timber to the ceiling.
this still left me with 100mm to make up.
i then fixed 50mm spacers to the ceiling timber, and fixed another 100x50mm timber to the spacers.
all the ceiling timbers were set back 20mm to allow for a piece of 150mmx18mm planed timber to the face.
all i had to do was then fix the top and bottom runners and fix the doors.
if you have a high ceiling, rather than fix timber clad to the header, you might be better off with plasterboard and skim.
oh by the way,prior to all this i spent a day carcassing the wardrobes out with mdf, coat rails, tele stand etc.