more reclaimed parquet anxieties

[bandonboy]

Hello, I asked for some advice (many thanks again) some months back. Basically, at that stage I was wondering about the best adhesive for old reclaimed Burmese Teak and Beech. I eventually settled for Lecol 5500 (not easy to get in my neck of the woods). I've now started to lay the stuff (though we had to machine every single block with a router clamped in a vice to ensure a neat fit for the T&G), and going fine.

However, I wanted to double-check a few things, and I'd really appreciate any advice at all.

These blocks are old - 50 years or so, at least. Our house is up over 30 years, so there are no problems related to movement or damp or new floors; it all looks very sound and the lecol is bonding the blocks well...But,

1) Can someone tell me if a 10 mill gap all round will suffice, given that I can't envisage any movement?

2) Unfortunately, despite careful laying of blocks there are some gaps here and there of a few mill. What's the best way to fill the gaps between blocks before sanding? PVA and sawdust? Some sort of filler + PVA and sawdust?

3) I was thinking of oiling the floor (rather than waxing or varnishing) - is this sound practice in a domestic setting? If so, can anyone recommend a product (not coloured) that would bring up the grain?

Many thanks for any and all advice.
BB

 

[WoodYouLike]

10mm around the whole perimeter of the floor is good.

As for filling: you need to collect the sand dust of the second sanding (first sanding normally with grit 40, second with 80 - but make sure you empty the collecting bag between the two grits). This sand dust you mix with what we prefer lecol7500 and fill the deeper gaps with first. If needed you can 'plaster' it over the whole floor to fill every little gap in one go.

Let the filler dry and any access filler will be sanded off with the third sanding, If you opt for oil - our preferred finish, with tropical woods your best bet is to use Euko oil1 instead of hardwaxoil - you have to sand with grit 120 and not a higher grit.

Hope this helps

 

[bandonboy]

Many thanks for good clear advice. Did some searching on the web last night and there seems to be some discussion/uncertainty about oiling hardwoods, mainly because since hardwood is oily in itself it can resist additional oiling, with the result that an applied oil finish can result in 'patchy' results - have you ever had this experience?

The people in question were recommending Granwax, which they claimed gave all the lustre and depth of oil, but was applied as a laquer/varnish.

regards
BB

 

[WoodYouLike]

Yes, we have the same experience with tropical hardwood floors, so now we are always using the Euku Oil1 when finishing these types of floors.

Very simple to apply, dries quickly, hten all you have to do is apply a maintenance product (like StepStop waxpolish) to act as your wear and tear layer (like the 'wax' in the hardwaxoil does)

Done in half a day

 

[bandonboy]

Many thanks for honest and helpful advice. Much appreciated.

Now I have to just finish cutting small triangles around the edges!

regards
BB