moto valves

[ollski]

You normally replace what's broken ... that's how you get things working again

Which, by the sound of it, is almost certainly nothing to do with the motorized valve.

 

[Softus]

You normally replace what's broken ... that's how you get things working again

Which, by the sound of it, is almost certainly nothing to do with the motorized valve.

Come now ollski, you're dragging logic and reason back into the topic! After all, raden has spoken, and we all need to be careful

 

[dotto]

Raden, just made a difference between the actuator and the motor. I just thought they were one thing. 1)What is the difference between the two?
2) Which of the two do you normally replace then?

The motor which drives the actuator head can be purchased separately (if that's the problem) it drives the actuator and is significantly cheaper than the complete head

You normally replace what's broken ... that's how you get things working again

Raden,how would you tell if it's only the motor that needs replacing or the whole head??I mean how do you check 4 that? Then, when people advise you on replacing it for a Synchron, do they refer to the motor itself or the whole head or do Synchron do both?? Thank you.

 

[Softus]

how would you tell if it's only the motor that needs replacing or the whole head??I mean how do you check 4 that?

You replace the motor and see if the whole thing then works.

Then, when people advise you on replacing it for a Synchron, do they refer to the motor itself or the whole head or do Synchron do both?

Synchron is not a brand, it's a type of motor, so your question isn't answerable.

 

[Onetap]

how would you tell if it's only the motor that needs replacing or the whole head??I mean how do you check 4 that?

You replace the motor and see if the whole thing then works.

You'd test the windings with a resistance meter. I think you might be getting out of your depth with this. If you're sure it's the head, just buy a new head.

Then, when people advise you on replacing it for a Synchron, do they refer to the motor itself or the whole head or do Synchron do both?

Synchron is not a brand, it's a type of motor, so your question isn't answerable.

Synchron is a brand, they make synchronous motors.
http://www.hansen-motor.com/synchindex.html

Synchron(ous) refers to the motor inside the head. Honeywell buy synchronous motors from Sychron/Hansen and put them in their actuators/ valve heads. Honeywell make the valve heads. Synchron make the motors.

 

[Softus]

how would you tell if it's only the motor that needs replacing or the whole head??I mean how do you check 4 that?

You replace the motor and see if the whole thing then works.?

No I didn't - you've added a question mark to the quoted text.

You'd test the windings with a resistance meter.

I certainly could, but invariably I wouldn't. If there's power to the motor and it isn't turning then measuring the windings is a waste of time.

Synchron is a brand, they make synchronous motors.
http://www.hansen-motor.com/synchindex.html[/QUOTE]
I stand corrected, and humbly apologise for the misinformation. You learn somefink every day.

However, whilst the replacement motor might be from "Synchron", the replacement powerhead isn't.

 

[ChrisR]

Onetap wrote:
You'd test the windings with a resistance meter.

I certainly could, but invariably I wouldn't. If there's power to the motor and it isn't turning then measuring the windings is a waste of time

No it isn't! The valve head, I mean the actuator, not the valve itself, by which I mean the brass bit , can jam solid. I know cos I just changed one only to find there was nowt wrong with it.

Not all synchronous motors are made by Synchron.
Not all motorised valve motors are made by Synchron.
Honeywell original motors are all Synchron motors afaik, but could have been replaced by a non-Synchron motor.

 

[Onetap]

No I didn't - you've added a question mark to the quoted text.

Guilty, unintentional error in cutting & pasting, now corrected.

You'd test the windings with a resistance meter.

I certainly could, but invariably I wouldn't. If there's power to the motor and it isn't turning then measuring the windings is a waste of time.

The motor could be OK & the actuator gears could be seized. I'd just replace the whole actuator head.

However, adventures with 230V could be a novel experience for some users, so I didn't want to suggest powering things up with the covers off. I'm sure you know what you're doing, I'm sure many others don't.

 

[dotto]

No I didn't - you've added a question mark to the quoted text.

Guilty, unintentional error in cutting & pasting, now corrected.

You'd test the windings with a resistance meter.

I certainly could, but invariably I wouldn't. If there's power to the motor and it isn't turning then measuring the windings is a waste of time.

The motor could be OK & the actuator gears could be seized. I'd just replace the whole actuator head.

However, adventures with 230V could be a novel experience for some users, so I didn't want to suggest powering things up with the covers off. I'm sure you know what you're doing, I'm sure many others don't.

To summarise everything:1)would i be right in changing the motor itself and if it still does not work ,buy an actuator separetly to fit with new Synchron motor since i do not know which of the two is faulty??2)Would it then be possible to buy the actuator by itself to fit with the new motor??...3)Or is it possible to check on both of them separately with a voltage tester to see which one is not working???? Please answer to the three questions!!!! Thank u ever so much..

 

[ollski]

To summarise everything,would i be right in changing the motor itself and if it still does not work ,buy an actuator separetly to fit with new Synchron motor since i do not know which of the two is faulty??

Dotto what are we summarising?, the summary for no hot water is forget the valve. Or am I missing something?

 

[Crystal]

You would be right in addressing the issue raised by ollski in the first reply to your original post, if you have not already done so.

 

[Softus]

Onetap wrote:
You'd test the windings with a resistance meter.

I certainly could, but invariably I wouldn't. If there's power to the motor and it isn't turning then measuring the windings is a waste of time

No it isn't! The valve head, I mean the actuator, not the valve itself, by which I mean the brass bit , can jam solid. I know cos I just changed one only to find there was nowt wrong with it.

We're getting lots of wires very crossed.

I agree with you ChrisR, but my assertion (about it not being worth checking the windings) was ONLY in the context of replacing either the powerhead or the motor, having already identified that the valve wasn't faulty.

The second step in fault-finding any MZV, IMHO, is to remove the powerhead and see if the valve is sticking or jammed. The first step is of course to confirm that there is power being supplied to the MZV.

Not all synchronous motors are made by Synchron.

OK.

Not all motorised valve motors are made by Synchron.

OK.

Honeywell original motors are all Synchron motors afaik, but could have been replaced by a non-Synchron motor.

OK.

 

[Softus]

Guilty, unintentional error in cutting & pasting, now corrected.

Fair play.

To summarise everything:1)would i be right in changing the motor itself and if it still does not work ,buy an actuator separetly to fit with new Synchron motor since i do not know which of the two is faulty??

No.

2)Would it then be possible to buy the actuator by itself to fit with the new motor??

No.

3)Or is it possible to check on both of them separately with a voltage tester to see which one is not working????

Not really, i.e. not easily.

As Crystal has observed, the best advice available to you was first given by ollski. You're getting very hung up on the idea of replacing MZV components when you haven't even identified the fault.

 

[dotto]

Guilty, unintentional error in cutting & pasting, now corrected.

Fair play.

To summarise everything:1)would i be right in changing the motor itself and if it still does not work ,buy an actuator separetly to fit with new Synchron motor since i do not know which of the two is faulty??

No.

2)Would it then be possible to buy the actuator by itself to fit with the new motor??

No.

3)Or is it possible to check on both of them separately with a voltage tester to see which one is not working????

Not really, i.e. not easily.

As Crystal has observed, the best advice available to you was first given by ollski. You're getting very hung up on the idea of replacing MZV components when you haven't even identified the fault.

Ho Softus and thank u all very much 4 your time and i apologise if this issue is dragging on. I read Ollski post. I have not checked for voltage on the cylinder stat because when i call 4 HW the boiler fires up, which i simplyassumed that the Cylinder stat was making the switch 4 boiler and the pump and therefore nothing wrong with cylinder stat....or am i wrong in assuming that?

 

[Softus]

All assumptions are potentially wrong!

Firstly, you should be able to control the boiler and pump by turning the cylinder stat up and down. Can you?

Secondly, if you operate the CH then you should see/hear/feel the MZV operating. Do you?

It's still possible that the MZV valve is stuck and/or blocked. If you remove the powerhead completely (isolate electrically first), then the spindle (which has two flats on it) should turn freely. Does it?