Motorised valve ticking noise

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3 Aug 2006
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Denbighshire
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United Kingdom
Problem: My motorised valve on the hot water of the CH is making a ticking noise and some times the boiler will not fire up. Is it A; Knackered B; Can you just replace the electrical motor or C; do I have to drain the whole system down and relace the motor and valve! :cry:
 
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Whats the make of the valve? and how old is it?

I had a honeywell motorised valve that used to make quite a ticking sound as it operated and occasionally used to fail to open causing heating not to come on.

Never got round to replacing it as it was an older style one without the replaceable head so would have needed a drain down (I think) but then it only caused a problem once I year so I chose to ignore it. The newer ones allow you to do just that.
 
A.Yes.
b.Yes.
C.No. Replace motor/head only, noting what wire goes where in 10 way box....make sure you isolate all electrics..normally at fused spur....I should mention that this is only possible where the head is white/plastic with 2 bolts that make it removable...if it is a silvery type enclosed valve..the motor inside may be shot..change synchron motor..
 
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if its ticking, it means the motor is working, so no use changing the syncron motor, the ticking noise is coming from the teeth inside slipping over. Replace the whole thing
 
Thats quite right BUT if you have good close up eyesight you can inspect the cog on the motor and the quadrant cam on the valve head and see which one is worn or has broken teeth.

If only the motor brass cog is worn then you may be able to just replace the motor.

Tony
 
Bamber gaspipe said:
C.No. I should mention that this is only possible where the head is white/plastic with 2 bolts that make it removable...if it is a silvery type enclosed valve..the motor inside may be shot..change synchron motor..

Is it just me that can't make head nor tail of this?....and I even understand some of bambers other posts.
 
Does it tick only when CH and HW are on together? If so, change the head or the constant movement of the spindle will wear the wet bit out then you will have to drain down. Some leak, and some go stiff and won't turn properly cos a burr builds up on the spindle tube.
 
ollski said:
Bamber gaspipe said:
C.No. I should mention that this is only possible where the head is white/plastic with 2 bolts that make it removable...if it is a silvery type enclosed valve..the motor inside may be shot..change synchron motor..

Is it just me that can't make head nor tail of this?....and I even understand some of bambers other posts.

methinks he means the honeywell wivout the dimple ;)
 
I saw an amusing three position valve a few weeks ago.

It would just motor back and forth from one end to the other!

Tony
 
Agile said:
I saw an amusing three position valve a few weeks ago.

It would just motor back and forth from one end to the other!

Tony

Wow....light hearted banter from Agile :eek:
 
That's what happens when you expose him to an amusing 3 port valve

I presume a continual drive one not spring return with a microswitch broken
 
I've got a hilarious drain cock - looks like a vegetable...
 
ollski said:
Bamber gaspipe said:
C.No. I should mention that this is only possible where the head is white/plastic with 2 bolts that make it removable...if it is a silvery type enclosed valve..the motor inside may be shot..change synchron motor..

Is it just me that can't make head nor tail of this?....and I even understand some of bambers other posts.

Sorry smart arse...shot...as in shot to pieces..knackered..not a breakdown engineer you`ll have to excuse the lack of technical jargon..
 
Bamber gaspipe said:
ollski said:
Bamber gaspipe said:
C.No. I should mention that this is only possible where the head is white/plastic with 2 bolts that make it removable...if it is a silvery type enclosed valve..the motor inside may be shot..change synchron motor..

Is it just me that can't make head nor tail of this?....and I even understand some of bambers other posts.

Sorry smart a**e...shot...as in shot to pieces..knackered..not a breakdown engineer you`ll have to excuse the lack of technical jargon..

If I were such a smart arse surely I would have understood the post?
 

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