Move self propell needs help disengaging

[ipbr21054]

My Champion mower snapped the cable so as I had a spare yesterday I decided to change it.

Today using the mower I found it hard to pull the mower backwards.
Reason being the gearbox / self propell was still engaged.
The inner cable can be seen after the adjustment screw then it locates into the bar for self propell operation.
I pushed the inner cable back down inside the external part of the cable & I was able to pull the mower backwards.

So what is my issue ?

Return spring on gearbox isn’t pulling the arm back enough ?

Self propell not adjusted correctly ?

The adjustment is a cylindrical threaded rod which passes through a bracket on the mower arms. Obviously the inner wire passes through it.

The adjustment is right at the end.
I did slacken off the 2 nuts a touch then locked them up again but didn’t make much of a difference.

 

[ipbr21054]

My setup at the gearbox end is like so.

There is a vertical post which has been drilled so far through. My outer cable fits in the drilled out part.

The inner cable passes through the small slot & has a ball of lead on the end of cable.

The ball of lead in enclosed writhing a spring which has a hook on the end.
The hook passes over an arm on the gearbox & sits in a small cut out.

On the same top face of the gearbox but around the corner a touch is also a small spring.

So I assume once I pull the bar at the handle the hook on the end of the spring pulls the arm / lever on the gearbox & the drive is now engaged.

I let go the bar at the handle & assume the small spring which is around the corner on the gearbox pulls back the arm / lever which then disengages the drive, except the drive isn’t full disengaged.

Funny thing is that before the last cable snapped is the drive was working fine with no issues.
So why now is the drive not fully disengaging as the same spring is being used which pulled the arm / lever back before ?

Also when I said if I push the inner cable back down through the outer cable a touch at the handle end what is that actually doing.
I mean I can’t be pushing that arm / lever on gearbox back can I ?

 

[Burnerman]

Let's see if we are singing from the same hymn sheet here.
On the top of the gearbox there is an arm, spring loaded for it's return. The drive cable, when pulled, pulls the arm which engages a dog clutch. Releasing same disconnects the dog clutch.
The cable is constructed so a spring actually engages the arm, this gives it a smooth, sympathetic engagement, so to speak.
If the transmission doesn't disengage then check two things.
The replacement cable isn't too long (or short), and that the gearbox engagement lever moves to it's full extent;
Check the drive belt tension - the gearbox may have an adjustable tension rod, or may rely on it's own spring connected to the chassis......designs differ. The gearbox needs to 'float' when in use.
(There are no user serviceable parts inside the gearbox, it's just brim full with oil. Resist temptation to split it)!
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Morning,
Attached is the cable in use.
The spring that you see is what passes through the vertical post i mentioned & the hook on the end sits over the arm & in a small cut out.

When I pull the handle at the bar the spring expands pulling the lever. So when I let go the bar because it’s an expansion spring this doesn’t then allow the arm / lever to return so the other spring I mention must be pulling the arm / lever back which then disengages the driver Correct ?

Are you saying the cable could be wrong when you mention it’s length ?

Do you devise me to drop the axle out & see what’s going on.

 

[Burnerman]

At this stage I would turn the machine over and see if you can work the engage lever by hand, maybe with the cable disconnected?
The lever should have it's own return spring somewhere, and lubricate the lever externally.
If that works well, then it has to be cable adjustment as far as I can see.
Regarding the new cable, it's the coil spring and threaded adjustment lengths that should be identical.
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Thanks,
I will; bring it inside & take a look.

I wil;l; send some photos for you to look at.

 

[ipbr21054]

I dropped out the axle again to get a better look. I removed the cable & operated the lever on the gearbox with my hand & it returns all the way 100%

I fitted the cable at the gearbox end only & whilst holding the outer casing I then pulled the inner cable at that goes to the bar handle. As the axle was out I could see everything. The arm seemed to return 100% but if I pushed the inner I could then see it move back more. Removed cable returns 100 % fit cable returns say 80%

The return spring was removed & I cut some of it off & made a new circular hook.
I fitted it back over the lever / arm & the other end on its post.

I’ve now fitted the axle & also the cable back on the side arm & made an adjustment. I could see that I had more adjustment on the threaded part which has 2 locking nuts.
Once all back together I engaged the self propell & I wasn’t able to pull mower backwards. I let the bar go to disengage and was still able to pull the mower backwards. So seems ok until I try it out cutting grass this week if dry enough.

 

[Burnerman]

To make the mower more cooperative when pulling the machine backwards, remove the rear wheels one at a time, clear out any debris from the gear wheels inside then remove the small gear pinion.
The drive mechanism inside is handed to work the differential so pay great attention to any pegs or keys within - they must go back the same way.
Degrease everything, then regrease once more and assemble.
John

 

[ipbr21054]

Hi,
I had done that many times but the issue this time was once i had fitted the replacement cable.
Today i have done5 gardens & pulling the mover back was fine.
Maybe i adjusted it difference OR cutting the small return spring made a slight difference but i would say its nor sorted.