Moving large sheets of plasterboard upstairs.

[flutterbye]

Just took delivery of 15mm thick accoustic plasterboard 1200x2400mm and realised to get these upstairs in tact is going to be very difficult due to their sheer size and weight.

Is it acceptable to cut the boards in half across their width before moving them upstairs to be fitted? I don't think I could cut them vertically because the studs are 400mm apart.

Many thanks in advance for any advice on this.

 

[diyreg]

Just took delivery of 15mm thick accoustic plasterboard 1200x2400mm and realised to get these upstairs in tact is going to be very difficult due to their sheer size and weight.

Is it acceptable to cut the boards in half across their width before moving them upstairs to be fitted? I don't think I could cut them vertically because the studs are 400mm apart.

Many thanks in advance for any advice on this.

A lot of people would be in shock horror at reading such a suggestion, but it's exaclty what I'd do. When you board out a wall/ceiling it's going to have a lot of gaps anyway and after scrim taping and plastering, these don't matter. If there's no other way to get them up then cut the buggers neatly with a Stanley and then snap then and cut the other side. Cut the good side (white paper) first

 

[Deluks]

Cut them vertically into 3 lengths of 2400x400, that way they'll sit on the studs. You'll only have about 22-25mm of edge to screw into but if there are noggins then you'll be screwing into these as well.

 

[RonnyRaygun]

I got mine upstairs without cutting them when I did my ceilings, although it was a bit of a challenge!

I guess it also depends on the geometry of your stairs and landing.

If possible, personally I would try not to cut them.

 

[Nige F]

Well I like cut and I like uncut ( said the actress to the bishop ) but which is better There`s only one way to find out ..................

 

[jeds]

I can't believe they won't go up whole. You need two people though. My advice is get help and get them up.

 

[Richard C]

I advise you to avoid cutting if you can & persevere with it. I’ve had to cut to get boards into some small en-suites but never had an occasion where I haven’t managed to get them up the stairs. I've done it on my own but difficult stair/landing configurations need two of you. It sometimes takes a little maneuvering & imagination & trimming the boards to height first (usually around 2.3m) can make all the difference.

If you must cut them, the edges should be supported on studs, noggins or joists but you will greatly increase the risk of cracks in the future & as its acoustic board you’re using, poor joints will reduce the acoustic performance overall.

 

[joinerjohn]

Personally, I'd either cut them length ways into 800mm and 400 mm or just cut them in half width ways. You could also have bought 1800mm x 1200mm sheets instead

 

[bobthebender]

Hi.
I've just had this problem in a small cottage and so i cut through one side only and folded them in half.I made sure the cut was on a timber and when folded back out you can't see the cut line

 

[geraint]

Just took delivery of 15mm thick accoustic plasterboard 1200x2400mm and realised to get these upstairs in tact is going to be very difficult due to their sheer size and weight.

Is it acceptable to cut the boards in half across their width before moving them upstairs to be fitted? I don't think I could cut them vertically because the studs are 400mm apart.

Many thanks in advance for any advice on this.

the more you cut.. the more acoustics you lose.....

 

[flutterbye]

Thanks for the replies. One other thing is why is the advice to leave a 15mm gap at the bottom of the wall? Is it to allow for expansion?

Also any idea which drywall screws I should get? One look at screwfix for example, turns up about 50 different sizes and types ! To recap, its 15mm thick board going up on 4x2inch wooden studs spaced 40cm apart.

Thanks again all!

 

[Richard C]

One other thing is why is the advice to leave a 15mm gap at the bottom of the wall? Is it to allow for expansion?

It’s not for expansion; traditionally it’s to prevent any chance of damp from a concrete ground floor wicking up into the plasterboard. On a 1st (or suspended) floor it’s not essential but still a good idea as it will prevent water damage in the event of flood or over zealous use of water when washing tiled floors.

Also any idea which drywall screws I should get? One look at screwfix for example, turns up about 50 different sizes and types ! To recap, its 15mm thick board going up on 4x2inch wooden studs spaced 40cm apart.

You need 3x the width of the board so 45mm long drywall screws in your case;
http://beta.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-black-coarse-thread-drywall-45mm-pk1000/47734
(Wickes also often have them in bulk boxes); 40cm centres is too wide, fix every 20cm.

 

[flutterbye]

Thanks a lot Richard. Really useful and to-the-point advice. Cheers !

 

[flutterbye]

One more (daft?) question. Since the boards will straddle 3 batons should I screw to the middle batton in the middle of the board as well as at the edges? Also, how frequent should I place screws and how far from the edge?

Sorry, that's 3 questions but hopefully easy for those in the know.

Thanks all again. Really fantastic site this.

 

[Richard C]

Since the boards will straddle 3 batons should I screw to the middle batton in the middle of the board as well as at the edges?

Most definitely yes; fix @ 200mm to every bit of timber the board rests on, studs, noggins, sole & head plates.

Also, how frequent should I place screws and how far from the edge?

As I said, pitch screws every 200mm; 12mm in from the board edges is the norm but no closer than 10mm or you will split it. Drive the screws just below the surface but not too deep that it splits the paper face.