new consumer unit advice

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11 Jul 2006
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Berwickshire
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im going to replace my consumer unit , my present one has developed a slight buzzing from main isolater breaker and im looking for one with more ways .
are there any makes to avoid and whats a good make???
any help appriciated
 
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Oh no here we go again.

Go for a split load board I tend to stick with Mem / Wylex or Hager as a personal prefrence & try to avoid Volex (lack of space inside).
If your going to do this work:

1 it's notifiable work
2 Are main bonds in place/correct size
3 What system type have you got with regard to rcd's
4 Do tails need upgrading to 25mm
5 have you the test gear to test upon completion
6 can you complete certificates

As for the buzzing on existing cu it probably needs a terminal tightening, isolate supply prior to doing this.
 
7 How do you intend to safely isolate the supply to the existing CU?
 
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Are you aware Runci that if you disconnect the old board and have not checked insulation resistances, that the new board with RCD protection might keep tripping. You are then not legally allowed to reconnect the old board. This is why we test before disconnecting. Well some of us do!!!
 
what about questions 1-6? -the more info you give the more help you get. at the moment there is little info, and it may seem people are telling you everything but what you asked, but safety is at stake, as i say give more info and you will get a lot more help.

and q3 should read:
3 What earthing arrangement have you got (as this effects what type of RCD's you need) -this is a very important question that needs answering before buying parts.
 
present board is a split load board ad im replacing it with a split load board with more ways , previous owner has wired immersion to ring main so i will have to run new cable .
im doing all work myself , im a fully qualified industrial electrician so thats why im asking about which boards are best i only work with 3 phase boards .
 
As you work with 3 phase stuff, if you can get hold of them, I hear MEM CUs are very good and will accept anything you can put in an MEM 3ph board (within reason). Not cheap though. Just repeating what the sparks have said.
 
MEM and Hager are the best domestic boards, and personally I like MK but some others don't.

There is nothing to stop you fitting a nice Merlin Gerin or Square D KQ+ if you like.

I have a Melin board in my garage
coolgleamA.gif
 
we only use merin boards at work , i try to keep boards the same ,saves keeping a large stock of spare breakers.
ive already changed all sockets,light switches and light fittings in house to mk range
 
if you are going for wylex then PLEASE ensure that all factory connections are tight
my lecturer just showed me a report he has from london of the cause of several fires..

turns out it was the wylex split load boards...

there is a solid neutral link that goes from the main incommer to the neutral rail which is sometimes not tight..

it is also not copper but steel..
it tends to weld the screw in place making it seem to be tight and as the link is solid the "wiggle" test also seems to be tight..

it then proceeds to spark erode the end of the link under the screw until it becomes thin enough to seriously overheat and catch fire..
 
How long since you bought a Wylex SL board fella?
They are now supplied with flexible conductors inside that connect to neutral busbars and between main switch and RCD.

The type that had the solid bar is not sold now.

The correct part about your post is to always check the tightness of all connections including the factory fitted ones. And make sure that the live busbars are properly engaged in the bottom of the cbs when you tighten up the screws.

TTC
 
i've also heared that there are different generations of wylex NS that don't quite fit together unless you bend the busbars.
 
Have you also noticed the HUGE yellow & black (think WASP) sticker on Wylex boards that says something like,


"CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS, INCLUDING FACTORY MADE ONES"
 

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