Not heating properly

[sensible]

I have a 3 year old Triton Opal II (10Kw) and was having problems with a low pressure light. I changed the PCB and it seemed to solve all my problems and was working perfectly for a couple of weeks.

Now I notice that it isn't as hot as it should be on high setting. It doesn't matter if on medium or high the temp stays the same warm temp even though the red light is switching form red 1 to red 2.

I will check the micro switches on the PCB to see if they are switching properly first.

I have read that it could be one of the heating elements and I should check it with a multi meter. (I undersyand there are 3 in the 10 kw shower)

Can someone explain exactly how I would check them. I presime they are in the black water tank... how do I get to them and test them?

Can someone explain i detail what to do?

Having spent £60 on a PCB, I may as well keep going with this shower but may need some help.

Thanks

 

[seco services]

you will see 4 prongs on top of the heat can.
2 prongs have a metal bar joining them and blue wires (neutral)
the otherside is 2 prongs both seperate brown wires (live)

isolate mains power
set meter to ohms
touch one probe on the prong with blue wires
the other probe on one with a brown wire (take reading)
then move probe to other prong brown wire (take reading)

what are both readings ?

 

[sensible]

you will see 4 prongs on top of the heat can.
2 prongs have a metal bar joining them and blue wires (neutral)
the otherside is 2 prongs both seperate brown wires (live)

isolate mains power
set meter to ohms
touch one probe on the prong with blue wires
the other probe on one with a brown wire (take reading)
then move probe to other prong brown wire (take reading)

what are both readings ?

Thanks... I will check it out tomorrow and post back here.

 

[sensible]

you will see 4 prongs on top of the heat can.
2 prongs have a metal bar joining them and blue wires (neutral)
the otherside is 2 prongs both seperate brown wires (live)

isolate mains power
set meter to ohms
touch one probe on the prong with blue wires
the other probe on one with a brown wire (take reading)
then move probe to other prong brown wire (take reading)

what are both readings ?

Firstly I unscrewed the cover and switched the shower between cold, red1 and red2. I was able to see the switches on the PCB flicking across, so presume that all is well on the PCB.

I then followed the instructions and firstly noticed that my multi metre loads of ohms settings, so set it to the lowest which was 200... MA I presume. Number 1 appeared on the screen. Tried it on one of the red prongs and the joined blue and it reads 10.7. Then tried it on the second red prong and the same paired blue and the number 1 remained constant, with no movement.

From this am I to presume that the one element in the tank has gone? (mine is a 10.5 KW so shouldn't it have 3 elements?)

If you are going to advise me to change the black tank, complete with the elements, how easy is that to do. I changed the PCB no problem, but obviuosly this has to be water tight.

I'm quite good at dismantleing and putting stuff back together.

 

[sensible]

I have found the part number for a new heat can assembly P12120706 (for 10.5 KW) which the cheapest is about £39 inc postage.

Is this the only part I would need or are there any seals etc required.

I would welcome any advice.. thanks

 

[sensible]

After following the instructions above I got the readings from my multi metre. I went on ShowerDoc.com and posted a question in relation to the readings and how easy/difficult it would be to change the heat tank. I recieved a speedy reply confirming the heat tank was faulty and that it was not too difficult to change, but it required a bit of dismantling.

Ordered the part from ShowerDoc.com ans finally fitted it today.

I took a series of digital photo's, whixh proved useful when putting it back together.

I then followed the fitting instructions on how to fill the tank with water before it is first used.

Shower now works perfectl once more.
PCB changed a few months ago, and now the heat tank. Total cost £106... it had better give me a few years of use now!

Oh and by the way... I am pleased with myself for fixing it.