Oil filter - central heating

[someonelse]

My oil tank has a filter in the supply pipe, installed about 4 years ago. For some reason my OFTEC engineer won't change/clean it when servicing the boiler, so it's never been done. I'm sure it should be?

Is it easy to do oneself? If so, should it be changed (and how?) or cleaned (and how?!!)

Thanks.

2 photos:
//www.diynot.com/network/Mike_e/albums/

 

[Agile]

Before considering cleaning it, has it been fitted with isolation valves on both sides of the filter element?

Assuming it has then you can easily replace/clean it yourself.

But what I am wondering is why your service engineer does not want to do it himself?

Is he a bolshi fellow? Is it a fixed price service and for some reason he does not think its included? Does he dislike you? Why do you think?

Sometimes it seems that I have a different attitude towards this industry. Maybe thats why some of my colleagues seem to be somewhat argumentative? My wish is to do the best job possible with the customers interest coming first. If that takes me a little longer that does not matter as I am working on a fixed price basis most of the time.

EDIT I have now looked at your pictures! It seems that normal maintenance is not available because there is no access. So it now does not surprise me that he will not touch it.

Tony

 

[Tibbot]

He probably doesn't do it because it's inaccessible. After closing gate valve, the nut underneath needs undoing with a bowl to catch the oil (there is a filter bowl spanner for the purpose but not widely available). The hard part will be locating the new top seal whilst trying to tighten it back up after changing the paper element. Top screws are for venting.

Your tank is too close to combustible barrier and also if a boundary too close to that. Looking at the state of it, the only work I'd do for you is fill out a risk assessment form.

 

[lifesagasman]

Maybe thats why some of my colleagues seem to be somewhat argumentative?

Tony

which ones?? name and shame!

 

[Burnerman]

It looks like one of the Crosland type of filters...so long as you can turn off the oil supply at the tank you can change it yourself.
There's a good chance the filter number is written on the element inside.
See the two screws on the top? After the cartridge is changed, you bleed any air out by undoing these, once the oil is turned back on again.
John

 

[someonelse]

Before considering cleaning it, has it been fitted with isolation valves on both sides of the filter element? --- The main stop cock is one side, no isolation valve the other.

But what I am wondering is why your service engineer does not want to do it himself?

Is he a bolshi fellow? -- A bit. Is it a fixed price service and for some reason he does not think its included? -- yes, and I guess so. Does he dislike you? -- not that I know. He has no reason to. Why do you think?

My wish is to do the best job possible with the customers interest coming first. If that takes me a little longer that does not matter as I am working on a fixed price basis most of the time. You're not anywhere near Milton Keynes/Beford are you?
Tony

 

[Agile]

I wrote that before seeing your photos!

An isolating valve either side would reduce the chance of air problems and I would always install any filter with that.

I can get to anywhere in the UK but it becomes non cost effective when others are closer. Now I have seen the photos I can see the access in inadequate.

Unless there is any problem I dont see any need to touch it.

Whats the other surface opposite the tank and whats on the other side of it? Can it be removed?

Tony

 

[Tommowlaes]

Looks a PITA to get access to, but if you feel the need, then turn the red isolator off, get some disposable gloves on, get a tub under the filter and undo the nut on the bottom (pressuming its not to badly corroded), withdraw the canister and the filter together. Replace the filter element and screw back together making sure the canister mates to the top
recess and 'o' ring. open the isolator and crack open each bleed screw on top untill air stops bubbling out. The filter looks like a Crossland 493 deep bowl filter, and elements are readily available.

 

[Boilerman2]

hope your OFTEC guy has filled in a CD133 Oil Tank risk assessment, looks a bit too close to a flammable boundary to me, Bloody awkward, but not imposible filter change, but i would prefer to relocate the filter somewhere more accessible

I had a customer a few years ago, to get to the filter, you had to fight your way through a blackthorn hedge, so i decided, that Iwould fight my way through the hedge once, cut out the filter and move it to a more accessible part of the oil supply the job is now a piece of p**s,
moral of the tail, sometimes you can make a pig of a job better

 

[someonelse]

Thanks guys.

Unless there is any problem I dont see any need to touch it.

Nope. No problem. Just a feeling that I've been looking after the boiler but ignoring the filter (and tank! see below). So how often to they need changing?

Whats the other surface opposite the tank and whats on the other side of it?

There's fence panelling surrounding (hiding) the tank. The other side is tall shrubs. I guess a panel could be taken off and nailed back.

i would prefer to relocate the filter somewhere more accessible

Well, back of my mind for some time now has been replacing the tank. Maybe I'll bite that bullet instead and get an accessible filter, with isolating valves, at the same time!

 

[Corgigrouch]

I have a chainsaw for just such an occasion.... The jobs a piece of cake then.

I'd pay to have the filter moved to a sensible location

 

[djsarge1973]

have you got any of the old Nozzles?..look at the filters on the nozzle..are they discoloured?, has the tank been dipped for water?...yes the tank is currently illegal, but if installed before 2005, then it was current, an 11mm spanner will undo the bottom nut, it looks like a crosland filter, so you can easily buy a replacement filter for it that will come with all of the seals needed, as an Indication I always look at the filter on the nozzle & the combustion for any indications of a dirty filter

 

[someonelse]

Thanks everyone. I explored the new tank route. One quote so far...over £3000! £2K materials (2500 litre bunded) + £700 labour. Access is bad though - via farmers field at rear.

if installed before 2005, then it was current,

I've been here since 1997 and it was oldish-looking then. So I guess it's legal even if not up to current standards!

No, never 'dipped for water' - there's a drain plug the other end to draw off any water/sludge but to be honest I'd be scared to loosen it.....
How do you 'dip'?