Oven isolators in new kitchen

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We are having a new kitchen designed and one wall is all tall units comprising six appliances. Unit 1 900mm - tall unit Larder Cupboard
Unit 2 600mm - tall unit containing integrated Freezer,
Unit 3 600mm - tall unit with two ovens (compact conventional/microwave oven above main oven with warming drawer below)
Unit 4 600mm - tall unit with two Ovens (compact steam oven above main oven with warming drawer below)
Unit 5 600mm - tall unit containing integrated Fridge

The whole wall up to the door frame is taken up by units and there is no wall left for mounting sockets or isolators.
I have been advised that, although these ovens can run from 13 amp supply, to run two 4mm supplies one to each bank of ovens presumably terminating in 2 x two flex outlet spurs to allow direct connection of oven flexes .

My question is location of isolators and if they are indeed needed.
The only options that I can see are:-
  1. In the back of the larder which is far from ideal and will obstruct shelves etc
  2. At the back of the two slim timber drawers beneath the warming drawers in either of Unit 3 and 4
  3. In the plinth directly below each bank of ovens.
  4. Drill directly through the wall behind the oven and mount the isolators in a recessed box in the utility room behind.
Apart from having to remove a drawer to access the isolator in option 2 and possible damage from vacuum cleaners in 3 (unless protected by covers) are there any regulations in Building Regs or 17th Edition that prohibit these possible locations?

Many thanks

Fozzie
 
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where will the light switch go?

Where is the nearest worktop with a wall or splashback?
 
Light switch is on opposite wall near main kitchen door and two way switched at another door into lounge (Door referred to above is to Utility). Nearest worktop is opposite side of room which would mean long cable runs overhead as concrete floor with UFH.
Fozzie
 
So run the cables in the ceiling.

You can have a switch grid near the door. If you want, as well as switches, it can include dimmers, indicator neons and even fuses. They are available pre-engraved with the names of most common appliances, or at extra cost you can have personalised engraving. They are assembled from common parts to suit your requirements.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=gridswitch&Submit=Search

You won't need one as big as this
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GUG24G.html
Available in white, silver, grey etc

You may do well to incorporate a duct in the wall for all the cables.

Alternatively you could have an 800mm larder unit instead of 900mm.
 
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There are only two real options:
a. Put them somewhere accessible
b. Don't have them at all

Installing isolators hidden behind drawers, plinths or in another room serves no purpose at all.
 
Out of your choice of four options, the first, the larder location, is by far the best.

You don't sound keen on this though. Bearing in mind they will probably be rarely used, will it be acceptable to fit them here?

Isolation is a good idea, you may want to turn something off for whatever reason, and you won't want to be dragging appliances out. Oh no.
 
As you are running two 4mm supplies I presume these will be off separate MCBs in the CU. Well they are your isolation points for when you may want to turn something off for whatever reason.
 
If they can't be seen, they may as well not be there.
 
Thanks All,
I was under the impression that all ovens required some form of isolation, but clearly I am incorrect. If the MCB in the CU is deemed isolation then thats what I will opt for.
Thanks again
Fozzie
 
Odd really, as soon as a shower or cooker plays up on this forum, the forum members will ask straight away for details on the isolator.
 
Odd really, as soon as a shower or cooker plays up on this forum, the forum members will ask straight away for details on the isolator.
... it's certainly true in the case of showers that (maybe because of the high currents) we seem to hear a lot more about problems with shower isolators than problems with the showers themselves. I suppose that problem is probably at its worst in the case of those who switch the shower on and off with an isolator each time they use it.

It's also of note that the two things you mention (showers and cookers), together with immersion heaters, are the things that are commonly/usually supplied by dedicated circuits, and hence are perhaps arguably the things that least require isolators.

Kind Regards, John
 
Although showers and cookers don't really need local isolators, immersion heaters do need local switching as no one in their right mind leaves them on 24/7.
 

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