Painting fresh external render

[scoon]

I have 40 sq meters of smooth new render to paint. I'm looking to use high quality branded paint such as the dulux weathershield smooth masonry paint (unless anyone can recommend something better?). I've been told to use a stabalising primer first - and dulux do one although they state "Do not seal sound, new or bare surfaces." What about the Weathershield Waterseal from Dulux - would this be suitable?

Also what's the best applicator to use to get a nice smooth finish, brush or roller?

 

[Zampa]

Water seal is a silicone based product like YThompsons water seal..dont use it..the paint will provide a 'seal'

A lot of people think all render has to be stabilised..its doesnt, as long as its resonably sound all youll need to do is brush it down with a broom to remove the loose particles

Paint...Dulux weathersheild in my opinion isnt very good, it skins up easy and doesnt cover very well, especially the white, and could mean to difference of having to give it an extra coat.

I prefer Crown Stronghold or Johnstones..

This time of year you really need to go for a pliolite based one...shower proof in about 20 mins

Pliolite is also self sealing, so all you need to do is thin the first coat by 15%

You should do this with water based too on new render.

A roller will give you a better finsih and will be quicker...helping you to avoid overlaps and fat edges.

 

[Soo]

I have used the Weathershield and the Sandtex.

I got a better coverage from the Sandtex but I preferred the finish with Weathershield.

Now have moved house and no rendering to paint!!! LOL

 

[scoon]

Appreciate your help. I went for the Johnstones Pliolite smooth masonry. Went on nice looked great after 2 coats but gave it a third just to make sure I wont have to do it again for another 10 years. Also used johnstones alkali resisting primer first on the advice of the guy in the shop.

 

[Zampa]

He was totally wrong to advise that..

Pliolite is self sealing all you need to have done was thin the first coat by 15%

Alkali resisting primer is mainly for use when you are intending putting an ordinary oil based paint as the finish coat over new plaster or rendering..it prevent the alkali in the surface attacking the oil in the paint and causing 'alakli burn' or saponification...which turns the oil into a sticky brown soap like sustance

Pliolite resin is not affected by alkali in the same way.

And..this also contridicts Johnstones standard specification for pliolite which is a stabiliser followed by two full coats...this, allthough not technically correct, has been brought out to get around tough new legislation regarding VOC's..(the smelly content in paint)

It wont do any harm but its costed you for paint you didnt need.

 

[scoon]

Oops. Should of just listened to you, Zampa.

Ah well looks good anyway.

 

[MHAD]

I'm due to start painting new render soon - it goes on next week.

How long should I leave it before it's ready to paint?

I've been looking for the right paint to use - my criteria are the same - good finish, long lasting. The Johnstone's Pliolite looks good and I was thinking of trying this.

Just so that I'm clear, do I need to seal / basecoat with anything else first, or do I start on the plaster directly with Pliolite watered down 15%? (Is that about 7:1?)

Also, I was wondering what gives the best finish - rolloer or brush? It'll be a smooth render and choosing smooth paint, so I'm thinking roller...

Thanks

 

[Zampa]

How long should I leave it before it's ready to paint?

Until its dry.

Just so that I'm clear, do I need to seal / basecoat with anything else first, or do I start on the plaster directly with Pliolite watered down 15%? (Is that about 7:1?)

Jonstones is fine pliolite is good stuff but both will give you good durabilty and finish and I think they are both gaurenteed for 15 years?

DONT WATER it down....pliolite is oil based..you thin the first coat on new render with about 20-25% white spirit , its self sealing so it wount need a primer or stabiliser (if you go for water based youll find that wont need a stabiliser ither unless the render is powdery)

All you normally need to do is brush down the wall with a stiff broom to get rid of any loose particles.

Also, I was wondering what gives the best finish - rolloer or brush? It'll be a smooth render and choosing smooth paint, so I'm thinking roller...

Im thinking your right...

 

[MHAD]

Thanks Zampa, that's a great help.

So Johnson's Pliolite it is, watered down with white spirit, on with a roller.

I'm hoping that it will dry a bit quicker this time of year, purely so that I can get on with it and have the scaffold taken down. But I won't be rushing it and painting too soon if it isn't dry.

Saying that, the base coat has been on for about 10 days so far and has an area that looks damper than the rest and doesn't seem to be changing. There were no deeper areas to cover, so it should all be the same. Funny why there are patches.

Thanks again.

 

[Zampa]

Could just be areas that you have rolled more than others...can you do a pic?

 

[Thewaltons]

zampa would just like to jog my memory. when i used to paint outside walls i think we used to use water based masonry but before hand we used to use uni bond on the wall first then paint the masonry paint on does this sound right to you? what is the advantages in using oil based masonry paint than water based? would the oil base paint keep all the staines from bleeding though the paint? thanks carl

 

[Growler]

I wouldn't use pliolite on new render, especially if there's a question over whether or not it's dry. Can't see the point in using it anyway and having to thin it with white spirit and get covered in the stuff, stinking of turps and cleaning down with it.
Wouldn't use it if it was free. I always use Johnstone's smooth masonry or Dulux weathershield smooth masonry or the last time, I used Sandtex High Cover Smooth Masonry which is superb to use, really tough smooth finish and if you need to thin it, you can just use the tap, and when you come to wash your rollers / brushes and trays out, again , the tap comes in handy.

 

[Zampa]

zampa would just like to jog my memory. when i used to paint outside walls i think we used to use water based masonry but before hand we used to use uni bond on the wall first then paint the masonry paint on does this sound right to you? what is the advantages in using oil based masonry paint than water based? would the oil base paint keep all the staines from bleeding though the paint? thanks carl

I wouldnt recommend using PVA under ANY masonry paint let alone pliolite based stuff..all this PVA business is a total old wives tale..if its new render then all you need to do is thin the first one by 20 odd % so it can lock onto the surface insteasd of sititng on the top.

Advantages of oil over water..to be honest paint and durability wise none..some water based masonry paints give you 15 years guarentee on it..(providing its on a new surface and you follow their instructions to the letter)

The only thing I like about pliolite is the fact that its shower proof in 10-15 minutes, its really saved my bacon once, hot sunny day nice straight forward outside job above a brand new block paved drive...just finished and over come the blackest cloud in the history of clouds!...and down it came, like a monsoon!..im there, thinking about solicitors, block paving firms, anger customers, insurance premiums, alsorts..

The paint didnt budge!, if it had been water based id have been in one of those 'canoe in a creek full of faeces and no paddle' situations!

But I agree with 'Le Growl' (6 time this year not bad eh!! ) stick to the wate based gear.

Crown stronghold or Jonstones are my favourites

 

[Thewaltons]

thank you for your help. what if the walls where old and had bits of render loose i would scrap the loose stuff off then what would you put over the render to help to stop the rest coming loose? we used to use unibond to help keep the render on.

we also used unibond before we wallpapered would you do this or just paste the wall first to size the wall?

 

[Kem6d]

what are your views on using layland trade truguard masonary smooth paint, on newly rendered wall? and how to use it?