parkinson cowan alto gm60 built in cooker

[crewy]

Hi all, i have a Parkinson Cowan alto gm60 built in gas cooker. It has worked fine until yesterday. When ever i turn the oven or grill on the fuse blows in the plug. I have taken the oven apart and can find only one problem. The ignition wire seems in bad condition. I have unwired the offending wire from the ignition box and still the fuse blows when i switch it on. Any ideas or help from you would be very much appreciated. Thanks

 

[Taylortwocities]

Could be anywhere. If its all gas cooker the electric is only providing the spark & any timers.
If you feel competent you'll just have to start at the beginning (a very good place to start as the song goes) and work your way thru the cooker until u locate the problem.

 

[Albert]

How is the supply to the ignition configured? Is it via a fused spur? it is possible that the wires in the box were damaged and the problem is not in the cooker.
With the proper multimetere it is possible to check the continuity of the L, N and E wires as well as the insulation resistance. If you do not have one of these tools you will have to follow the circuit steep by steep as advises by Taylortwocities.

 

[crewy]

I have a tester and have started from the begining. It is a all gas cooker and the fuse pops when i turn either the oven ignition on or the grill ignition on. If i change the fuse and plug it in again the clock appears to be working fine until i use the oven or grill. The oven power is on the normal kitchen ring main as it doesn't require anything more substantial.Here is what i have done so far. I tested the double socket to which i plug the cooker into and that has 240v, i pluged in the cooker switched it on and tested the flex connecting the cooker and there is 240v at that point so no trouble there. When i removed the front facia there are a set of two switches for each knob, i tested the switces are working through continuaty and they are. There is a red wire conecting both sets of switches, when i removed it from the oven switches but left it on the grill switch the oven would ignite but the grill when turned on would still pop the fuse. This red wire does not connect in anywhere else. I then unpluged all the wires, a grey,violet and blue wire from the ignition to eliminate that from the problem but the fuse still pops. Is it possible there is an earth fault or as you say an insulation fault? How do i test for these problems. I have good quality tester whujch is capabl of testing amps, volts and continuaty, will that test earth and insulation faults. Thanks all

 

[Albert]

for insulation resistance testing you need a tester that can send different values of voltages to the circuit, in this case it should be 500V and the meter will read the resistance. This test is done between E/L, E/N and L/N.
have to make sure that there is nothing sensitive connected to the circuit (dimmers, boiler control etc.)

 

[Taylortwocities]

have to make sure that there is nothing sensitive connected to the circuit (dimmers, boiler control etc.)

.. like the elcric clock in the cooker, for instance

 

[Albert]

have to make sure that there is nothing sensitive connected to the circuit (dimmers, boiler control etc.)

.. like the elcric clock in the cooker, for instance

etc.= electric clock... can't you see?

 

[Taylortwocities]

I can, just wanted to be sure the OP didnt stuff 500V DC up the cooker doing the L-N IR test you suggested.

He should be able to find the prob with a simple ohm meter if the fault is blowing the fuse consistently, even if its a 3A fuse.