PAT Testing Equipment

[frank999]

I need to test a small number of domestic applicances.
I am taking an Online course to become competent.

In the past I have paid my electrician to do this, but when I have witnessed him do it, he has just used his normal test equipment, I presume one does not need specific test equipment just designed to do PAT testing, to perform the test.

I remember he hand wrote out stickers, and provided me with a what looked like a spreadsheet of the tests, it didn't appear to be any prescribed Certificate ... is that correct that there isn't a specific certificate, just a sort of log that shows the tests results.

 

[Tigercubrider]

BattPAT | FirstStopSafety

The BattPAT is our very easy to use battery powered Portable Appliance Tester. The BattPAT tester uses built-in rechargeable batteries and is supplied fully calibrated with a Lifetime Warranty and a mains charger. It is ideal for those wanting to carry out in-house PAT testing of electrical...

www.firststopsafety.co.uk

is what I use

 

[flameport]

, just a sort of log that shows the tests results.

Examples of test records are included in Appendix 4 of the Code of Practice.

 

[frank999]

I took a quick look at a random Kewtech PAT testing log book (on the interweb), and it requires test values, the above kit is either PASS or FAIL from what I can see, there are no values to enter.

The more expensive testers I presume - in the hands of more knowledgeable people, help judge the condition of equipment better ? or something along those lines. I guess if say a hoover or washing machine fails, it fails the test, but to fix you run round it with a meter to try identify the problem, if its a cable thats suspcted you put an Insulation tester on it.

I have a number of extension leads, for both 240v and 110v, in various states of condition, and various lengths, some quite long, wonder how the BattPAT copes with that.

I see the above kit comes with lifetime Calibration.

 

[RandomGrinch]

The more expensive testers I presume - in the hands of more knowledgeable people, help judge the condition of equipment better ? or something along those lines.

The main 'tests' performed when PATting are the visual inspection, and additionally for class I appliances, an earth bond test and an insulation test.
I have extensively used Seaward Europa Plus and Apollo testers.
These testers record the results and I upload them to a database.
If I have for example, an appliance that has failed an insulation test, I can compare the result to previous results and see if there has been a gradual deterioration. If there is a problem I can flag up similar appliances and look into their test records.
If there is a recurrent problem, I can adjust the testing frequency in my risk assessment, to keep on top of these failures.
These machines also allow additional tests, such as checking the polarity of extension and IEC leads and can perform a safe power-on test for earth leakage.

All very useful, when you have thousands of appliances to look after!

I need to test a small number of domestic applicances.

If you really do have only a few appliances to test, then a simple Pass/Fail tester may be perfect for your needs.

How many appliances do you need to test?
Are they mostly class I or class II?

 

[mattylad]

I use the Kewtech app to manually record the results, this can then give me a PDF of the results or I can export them and bring them into a spreadsheet so I can keep historical records (A database would be better but spreadsheet is all I can use).

 

[RandomGrinch]

I have a number of extension leads, for both 240v and 110v, in various states of condition, and various lengths, some quite long, wonder how the BattPAT copes with that.

Sorry, didn't see the edit.
Again, the good thing about expensive testers - I have the flexibility of entering a customisable lead length allowance to my earth bond tests, which takes into account the cable length and conductor cross section area.

From the manual, the BattPAT, does have a long lead button - not customisable, but it should help.

Just to note, the BattPAT has a Class II test button, to test insulation on double insulated appliances.
The guidance now is to only perform a visual test on double insulated appliances. The insulation test was basically pointless on a Class II item (let's connect a test probe to the plastic case!) and can on rare occasions cause damage.

 

[frank999]

@RandomGrinch - required currently are all the items in 2 domestic flats, so definately not 1000's of items.
I am aware tenants bring all manner of plug ins onto the premises, and although it is fully covered with a fire safety system, I would rather there not be a fire in the first place.
I'm looking at drawing up some form of 'Personal Electrical Appliances Policy' and make PAT testing part of, although it also seems just another thing you think you need to police ... which tenants have little patience for - even though its actually for their safety.

@mattylad - I've seen some testers use some very fancy stuff previously, quite extensive paper work stored if I ever wanted it, and provided at the time.

 

[RandomGrinch]

required currently are all the items in 2 domestic flats, so definately not 1000's of items.

Then something similar to the BattPAT will probably be suitable.

Just to emphasise that the tester itself isn't the most important part of the process - If you have a quick look around your own home, you will probably be surprised by how many appliances are double insulated.
Also, the vast majority of fails are picked up by the visual inspection. You often get fails on earth bond tests, but that might just need you to place the probe in a slightly different place (or require some judicious use of Scotchbrite!), but it is actually quite rare for a tester to pick up a complete failure of an appliance!

 

[plugwash]

In the past I have paid my electrician to do this, but when I have witnessed him do it, he has just used his normal test equipment, I presume one does not need specific test equipment just designed to do PAT testing, to perform the test.

As I understand it a basic PAT test consists of

1. Visual inspection
2. Earth continuity testing (for class 1 appliances)
3. Insulation testing.
4. Functional testing (does the appliance work)

Both earth continuity testing and insulation testing can be performed with an electrican's standard multifunction tester, though it may be useful to buy or make a test adapter.

Most decent PAT testers also offer a "run test" where power is supplied to the appliance and earth leakage is measured, this can be used as an alternative to insulation resistance testing and may be more appropriate for some appliances. Particularly appliances where parts of the appliance are disconnected by relays until power is applied. This cannot be replicated with an electrician's standard multi-function tester, some bargin basement PAT testers don't provide it either.

I would say if you only plan to do PAT testing then you are likely better off with a dedicated PAT tester than with an electricians multi-function tester.

The problem I see with a simple pass/fail tester is the acceptable results can depend on the appliance. For example if an appliance has a higher than expected earth resistance that would be indicative of a bad connection somewhere which needs to be rectified, but what the expected earth resistance is will depend on the length and size of the flex. In a properly run pat testing programme (which sadly I suspect few places have) recording results can also allow trends to be identified.

 

[RandomGrinch]

4. Functional testing (does the appliance work)

Functional checking is an interesting one - we don't functional test for a number of reasons; it would take us too long and many of our lab installations need the correct preparations to turn on and off. The functional testing of a class 4 laser may take an hour!
One PATter unintentionally destroyed a piece of equipment that was normally ramped up by a Variac - a very unfunctional test!
In essence, as long as the power switch is turned on, the PATest will tell us whether an appliance is safe to plug in to a socket - whether it functions or not, is a moot point!

the expected earth resistance is will depend on the length and size of the flex.

It's also a function of the earth bond test current - Equipment may struggle to pass a test at 4A, but will easily surrender at 25A!
The BattPAT suggested above has a single earth bond test current of 150mA - this will be good enough for most items, and be safe for IT equipment testing, but might struggle to give reliable tests to long extension reels. It also won't burn out any dodgy connections that a 25A test might do.

 

[ericmark]

Between my son and I we do have an old Robin PAT tester, but there is nothing to stop doing the same tests with an insulation tester, low ohm meter and clamp on ammeter. The difference is speed, easy with a PAT testing machine, but a lot of messing around using other testers. But if the item does not have a plug, no real option but use individually testers.

The re-testing is easy, you have the previous test to show type, and tests done, but for the first test, you have to decide what to test.

Doing it right, with a equipment register the biggest problem was finding the items. I did once had a tester with just green and red light for pass and fail, but the software asked for readings, I was advised to simply enter better than what ever the pass figure was on the calibration certificate, and I realised the pass level was not entered on the certificate, and it turned out the machine could not be calibrated to the new pass levels.

With a meter you can test a known resistor etc and be sure the tester is within limits, but the green/red light type harder to check calibration.

I can see with domestic and rental premises items which belong to the landlord tend not to have plugs on them, bathroom extractor fan, oven, hob etc. So I can see why you would not want a PAT testing machine, likely doing it at the same time as the EICR, but if your not doing the EICR then you need to be careful to ensure all items are tested, I have seen it where the PAT tester has not tested items with no plugs, and the EICR has only covered non current using equipment with the exception of the lights.

 

[pcaouolte]

@RandomGrinch - required currently are all the items in 2 domestic flats, so definately not 1000's of items.
I am aware tenants bring all manner of plug ins onto the premises, and although it is fully covered with a fire safety system, I would rather there not be a fire in the first place.
I'm looking at drawing up some form of 'Personal Electrical Appliances Policy' and make PAT testing part of, although it also seems just another thing you think you need to police ... which tenants have little patience for - even though its actually for their safety.

What do you propose to do if the tenant's equipment fails the PAT test?
From my experience in office environments some people hide dodgy/personal equipment on PAT test days, it seems likely that your tenants could do something similar.

 

[ericmark]

@pcaouolte makes a good point, failed items should go into quarantine until repaired of disposed of, I remember my workshop had a large sign, "This is a quarantine area, no electrical items to be removed without permission." and I was choked off by HSE inspector for not locking my door.

I would not include tenants equipment, unless asked, it is the same with the silly lumps of plastic which one finds shoved into sockets, unless marked BS 1363 it should not be plugged into a socket, and I have never found those silly plastic things with BS 1363 marked on them, but they are not yours so you can't bin them, and they are not electrical so are not tested. However they can damage sockets as to if you can charge tenants to swap all sockets which you find with them in, that is also likely to cause problems.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

As above, the most frequent fails on periodic testing are picked up by visual inspection (extension leads twisted/kinked/nicked and field-bodged with insulating tape or similar, plug pins bent, socket shutters removed or not functional, strain relief fails (inner cores exposed), loose or poor terminations inside plug or socket.....).
As a landlord, why are you supplying tenants with extension cables? If there are insufficient sockets to cope with installed appliances you need to look at adding sufficient fixed sockets as part of risk management.
As for a PAT policy in your (presumed standard AST domestic tenancy), I really wouldn't waste the effort- who is going to police it?
Spend the time and money on ensuring the installation is up to scratch - in a tenanted situation RCDs (or RCBOs) on every circuit (yes lights as well) are your friend as well as periodic inspection and testing of the appliances you supply (periodic in my case tends to be at change of tenant, appliances supplied are fixed white goods).
Back to your questions- for my limited number of items (about 12 in each house) handwritten stickers and inspection records are an adequate system- if you get into larger numbers you may want to look at a more formalised IT-based solution.
The Seaward kit is handy for general asset management (you can code an item for visual inspection only but if you don't scan its barcode during checkout or testing season it'll show up on a report) but it's probably overkill for a couple of flats.