Plumbing in new sink to existing pipework

[LeeADAB]

Hopefully someone can help with this.
I have two water feeds in my garage that is being converted into a utility room. One hot and one cold feed. Previously used for washing machine so they both have appliance bsp valve connectors.
What is the easiest way to connect the washing machine and a sink tap to the cold feed and extend the hot to the tap.
I'm assuming the best way would be to chop out the existing connectors and put in a machine valve tee straight off the copper pipe? Then just extend the copper pipe on the hot direct to the tap with speed fit type connectors? I can't find any connectors to utilise the exitising bsp fittings. That was my first hope as they are well fitted and I assumed ready to just connect to.
Any ideas? Cheers, Lee

Screenshot_2016-02-10-12-14-39

• LeeADAB
• 10 Feb 2016

 

[LeeADAB]

Probably need one of these? http://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-valve-tee-15mm-x-bsp/60723#

 

[Madrab]

Many different ways determined by how professional you want to be, how far the sink is going to be and are you keeping the Washing Machine (WM) tap?

If you're keeping the feed for a WM then the valve you have linked to is fine.

1. Correct way would be to insert the tee valve you have indicated for the cold, most new WM's only use a cold feed, then a copper tail then insert a full bore ISO valve, then run 15mm copper to the tap. Remove the hot valve, insert a full bore ISO then continue as the cold.
2. Quick DIY way would be to fit the WM Tee and then a small tail of plastic then connect a 15mm compression ISO to 1/2" female flexi pipe for the cold and 1 x 22mm female to 1/2" female flexi from the Hot WM tap to the sink hot tap.
3. Half way house, do as the 1st one but replace all the copper with plastic and push fits, don't forget the inserts.

 

[LeeADAB]

Thanks Rob. I have bought all the bits now and this is the plan. Thanks for the reply. Seems a good solution to me. Only issue I can see is the existing glued in bends in the standpipe (Circled in yellow). Will leave them in place and see how it goes - I can't see them being a problem?

Cheers, Lee

 

[Madrab]

You can use that straight through valve if you wish but I'd recommend full bore ISO valves on both feeds, one after the cold WM valve the other to replace the hot valve already there, then run plastic as described.

You'll need valves on both hot and cold, that cold valve only isolates the WM, not the cold feed to the tap. You will also need a couple of push fit 1/2" tap connectors too.

The waste you are planning is fine. As long as the solvent weld pipework is clean and clear then no issue using that.

 

[LeeADAB]

Thanks Rob. Good point about the WM valve only isolating that. The feed from the cloakroom next door has Full bore isolating valves just before it comes through the wall into the garage so I can use them to isolate if there is an issue. Much easier access than pulling out the washing machine too.
I assume the speedfit straight thru connectors (top right of image) are what you mean to connect to the copper tails on the taps? Waste pipe is clean and clear and has been used recently with the washing machine so that's all good then.

 

[Madrab]

Depends on the type of tap(s) you are using. If you're using a monobloc with 2 copper tails then the couplers you are using would be fine. You will need a couple of elbows and some pipe clips. Straight along from the valves then elbows, pipe up to the sink, then connect to the tails with the straight couplers. Pop in a couple of clips for support on the horizontal and vertical pipework.

If you have ISO's upstream of that pipework then no extra valve needed.

 

[LeeADAB]

Hadn't thought I'd need elbows but will get some later if needed. The "monoblock with tails" will only be about 4-5ft from the valves. Would the pipe curve or would that place too much stress on either end. Less connectors the better I had originally thought.

 

[LeeADAB]

Will this cut the pipe (as I have a new one of these).....
http://www.screwfix.com/p/tube-cutter-3-28mm/49428

or will I need the "special" pipe cutter??.....
http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-pipe-cutter/93312?_requestid=69947

 

[Madrab]

I'd use elbows, much tidier and no major impact on flow and unless you use cold forming bends then you could stress the connections.

No, the pipe cutter in the 1st link is for copper. You need one for plastic as in your 2nd link. If it's a one off use then I'd just get a cheaper cutter. Or if you're good with a stanley, just make sure the cut is clean and square.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

The tube cutter in your first link is fine for copper pipe, you need clean ends if using Speedfit type fittings, or you can rip the rubber O ring and it'll then leak. 2nd link is for the cutters used to cut the plastic Speedfit type pipe.

With regards to the waste, I'd either put a compression elbow on the top of the existing pipe where you come away to the new sink, or if using solvent weld fittings, fit a T and then an access plug in the top (vertical) unused socket, to allow you to get into the pipework if it ever blocks in the bottom of those existing bends.

 

[LeeADAB]

Cheers guys. I shall use two elbows and borrow the correct cutter then just for this job.
Appreciate all the advice.

 

[Bosswhite]

I would have thought it is far easier just to remove the washing machine taps leaving the nut and olive in place and replace with flexible Tap Connectors ( they come in different lengths) including their own isolating valve.