Plywood gate panel measuring fail... any viable fix?

[Joonyer]

Hi all

Posted here a little while back about refurbing my gate. Finally found time to do it!

Had a panel of plywood cut to size at the local builders merchants, then cut out the hole for the handle. However - and I'm embarassed as hell about this - I messed up the measuring somehow. By a lot. See the top of the attached pic. I still have no idea what I was thinking that day...!

Anyway, rather than scrap the whole panel and start again, I fitted it just to see how bad it looks. I'm now torn between ripping it down and doing it properly, or making a fix, if there's anything passable.

I thought about some sort of beading/edging to go around the inside of the handle to cover the gap, but this would probably be fiddly and perhaps look odd (suggestions welcomed). My other thought is to cut another small strip of ply to fill that gap, and glue it on as neatly as possible, then paint over it with the wood treatment stuff and hopefully hide the join.

Is this idea cowboy-worthy or just sensible? I'm not a bodge-merchant but would rather avoid redoing the whole thing if possible - never any free time. But if I need to then I need to. Next time I'll measure 3 times...!

cheers
Matt

 

[Himaginn]

Two pieces of ply to cover both sides, and fit the hole. Held together with coach bolts in each corner. The metal gate will act as separating packers. Obviously coach bolt heads to the outside. It'll look a bit naff from inside, but look secure from outside.
Correct holes for handle and key.
You could add the beading as a highlight.

 

[JohnD]

Fit a large fingerplate. It will look OK. You can use coach bolts or sleeve nuts. You could paint it to blend in if you want.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=door+fingerplate+stainless&_sop=15

I find it quite difficult to drill stainless, but I can pass you details for someone who made up some kickplates to order for me, mail order, and will cut and drill.

Or, much cheaper, take the ply off and re-fit it turned round the other way. You could glue in your previous cut-outs if you want.

 

[Joonyer]

Two pieces of ply to cover both sides, and fit the hole. Held together with coach bolts in each corner. The metal gate will act as separating packers. Obviously coach bolt heads to the outside. It'll look a bit naff from inside, but look secure from outside.
Correct holes for handle and key.
You could add the beading as a highlight.

Hi mate, thanks for your comments. Do you mean removing the whole piece of ply that I've fitted, and starting again with two new pieces? That's what I'm trying to avoid ideally, as this one is basically finished now apart from this 1" gap above the handle!

Fit a large fingerplate. It will look OK. You can use coach bolts or sleeve nuts. You could paint it to blend in if you want.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=door+fingerplate+stainless&_sop=15

I find it quite difficult to drill stainless, but I can pass you details for someone who made up some kickplates to order for me, mail order, and will cut and drill.

Or, much cheaper, take the ply off and re-fit it turned round the other way. You could glue in your previous cut-outs if you want.

Thanks for your thoughts mate - I'm not sure how this would work? Where are you suggesting I put the finger plate? My concern is the 1" gap at the top of the handle bit. The ply is drilled and bolted onto the wrought iron gate currently (took some drilling...!). I don't get what you mean about re-fitting it the other way, as I'd just have a big rectangular hole in the opposite side then.

Would gluing on a small strip of ply to fill that gap not work out ok?

cheers
Matt

 

[Nige F]

Would gluing on a small strip of ply to fill that gap not work out ok?

cheers
Matt

If you're just concerned about the small gap then yes glue a piece in with a waterproof gap filling glue

 

[Joonyer]

If you're just concerned about the small gap then yes glue a piece in with a waterproof gap filling glue

Didn't know such a beast existed... I'll get to screwfix! Thanks again

Matt

 

[Nige F]

No worries- my "carpentry" requires things like that a lot- I wasn't a bad plumber in my time though

 

[JohnD]

Where are you suggesting I put the finger plate? ...I don't get what you mean about re-fitting it the other way, as I'd just have a big rectangular hole in the opposite side then.

The fingerplate would go over the lock, protecting it and hiding the hole.

If however you were to turn the ply round, the gap would not matter as it would not expose the lock, and it would not be where people are looking, so a ply patch would not matter.

 

[Joonyer]

Thanks bud but I think I did a ****e job of explaining my issue - I need access to the lock, it's just that inch high strip of empty space above the surround which needs addressing. But all sorted now thanks I'm going to so some creative patching...!

Matt

 

[JohnD]

I meant you to drill two holes in the cover plate, for the keyhole and the handle spindle.

 

[Himaginn]

Thanks bud but I think I did a ****e job of explaining my issue

That almost deserves a thanks!

I meant just the small bit to cover the gap. The metal coach bolts will pinch the ply against the metal to hold it in place.

 

[Gerrydelasel]

Cut a 'C' shaped piece of ply to fit around the lock, and fit with coach bolts. Then paint it black to look like some kind of cast iron reinforcing plate. Make it a feature!

 

[Joonyer]

Thanks all for the additional comments - I'll try glueing a strip of ply first then if it looks **** I'll go to one of the options above. Problem is I'm a stickler for symmetry. Then again it's a garden gate so maybe I should calm down.

Cheers again
Matt

 

[hansPulesh]

If you have a welding kit and feel comfortable doing it, get yourself some angle irons/beads and cover the wood and let the iron/bead travel around the hole.

If not, then do the same thing but with black plastic angled beading and stick it on with no more nails.