Polyplumb or Speedfit?

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What's the difference between these 2 systems?
I'm planning to renovate bathroom, replacing shower bath and sink, including running hot & cold pipes in wall for recessed shower valve and semi-ped washbasin.
So which of these two would be best for me?
Ta for any tips. :)
 
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Just remember they're going to leak sooner or later, and you'll be fine using either.
 
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for the ammount of work youve mentioned why bother with plastic? its a minimum ammount so stick with copper. hep, speedfit, polyplumb etc etc are all moulded directly from satins a7sehole.
 
Cos I don't want to use solder and risk bad joints, and I want flexibility when routing pipes in wall.
hep20 seems to be similar price to others, is it really more reliable? 50 year guarantee suggests they are pretty confident......
If so I'll use that.
ta.
 
I like the Hep2o barrier pipe, but I dont like their elbows and tees etc.
So, I use the correct inserts and brass compression fittings.
Just my way!
John :)
 
Nigelad,

I have done a bit of reading into plastic because I needed to add a pipe run to top my boiler up that meant ripping up more floorboards than I was happy with. I have no experience of using plastic as I use copper when I can but I have chosen to turn to the dark side for this instance.

Disclaimer I am a DIY'er!

I think the trick is to make clean cuts on the plastic possibly using a special tool rather than a hacksaw to reduce the burrs and get a nice straight edge, the next is to make sure that you have enough pipe engaged into the fitment. Some makes have markers on so you know its fully engaged. If you are joining to copper and using pushfit then use silicon spray on the copper and always use the end caps for the plastic.

I haven't even done it yet and already I'm getting nightmares about leaks because of the scaremongering you read but the way I reckon it's used in millions of homes so it can't be that bad!? :?:
Can o worms though.....

Good luck.
 
Hi Nigelad,

I have used Speedfit throughout my house, it has been installed for the past 2 years and I haven't had a single problem. The key is, as Robbie77 said, to do it properly and then the troubles you speak of won't exist.

The only difference that I can see with Polyplumb is that the fittings have to be disassembled fully to fully remove the pipe from a fitment, whereas Speedfit allows you to unscrew the securing ring and squeeze a lockring to release.

I've encountered many plumbers that say "ouch don't touch the stuff..." and you then quiz them as to why and they haven't got a clue, they haven't ever used the stuff, don't know a thing about the range of fitments and can't give a truly constructive response - however I have also spoken to professional plumbers with over 30yrs experience that use nothing but plastic now, its quicker, cheaper, quieter, far more flexible in terms of extending a system in the future, has a 25yr guarantee and is now replacing copper on a largerscale throughout new build developments...in summary ignore the horror stories because this stuff is the future, whether those that won't embrace change like it or not.

In addition and important to me in terms of reducing my heating costs (if only a little), the Pex pipe has far better thermal properties and so your heat loss is less than with copper. Run each type of pipe alongside each other and fill them with hot water - the difference in conductance is substantial, the copper pipe is almost immediately at temperature compared to pex which is barely warm.

Those old plumbers that hang onto Copper seem only to be doing so to protect their labour charge...in my opinion. A badly installed copper job is just as likely to 'pop' as a badly installed Speedfit job, the difference being that to fit Speedfit doesn't require soldering/welding/bending experience/skills and tools.

Good luck!
 
I've encountered many plumbers that say "ouch don't touch the stuff..." and you then quiz them as to why and they haven't got a clue, they haven't ever used the stuff, don't know a thing about the range of fitments and can't give a truly constructive response

In no particular order, just a few of the 'clues'

*Plastic embrittlement.
*O-ring embrittlement.
*Sagging, causing airlocks and looks a mess even if carefully laid.
*Fittings too bulky for concealed areas.
*Doesn't bend properly.
*Pipe cheaper but fittings far dearer.
*Speedfit outer nut can split in modest cold temps.
*Pipe fails spectacularly with frost, whole lengths split, so no spot repairs.
*Looks cheap.
*Not new, been here for decades survives through perceived cheapness.
*Less hygienic than copper (microbiological growths).
*Is only quicker to fit for those who have limited skills.
*Guarantee worthless as chances of proving faults are slim.
*Rodents eat it.
*No recycle or scrap value, old stuff ends up in landfill.

Furthermore heat loss only matters where it doesn't contribute to the heated space, (lofts garages) in which case all pipe should be insulated.
Copper is only noisy if carelessy installed.

It's fine for DIYers (and for UFH uses), but to me calling yourself a professional plumber and using speedfit is like making microwave ready meals and calling yourself a chef.

It's professional, not old plumbers who hang on to copper. The advantages you've described only benefit a DIYer or someone who wants to use a product which is more forgiving to shoddy workmanship.
 

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