Potterton Puma diverter valve and spares

jasonvaughan said:
...i bend the bracket...
In that case you leave the boiler looking an exhaust fitter has had a go at it, which is a shame jasonv, because your other posts make you look extremely competent.

jasonvaughan said:
...but id love to see you guys change the whole valve in under 45 min without doing it......
I don't know why you think that bending the bracket and then undoing the backnut is quicker than not bending the bracket and then undoing the nut. That doesn't make any sense.
 
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Must say that I usually change the diverter valve in under 45 minutes without bending anything.
 
Firstly thanks for all the advice, and apologies for not getting back sooner (didn't want to start a riot though!)

One further piece of 'evidence' I should have supplied is that although I am convinced that the diverter is the problem, the fault is intermittent. I reckon the thing fails to work about 50% of the time.

Of the other 50% i.e. once the valve has worked properly when the CH turns on from cold, then it seem to carry on working until the CH switches off for the day.

The reason I mention this is to see if you believe this is a failure symptom of the whole valve or just the wax thing?

(Ollski - I live in North wales, miles from anywhere - but quite nice when the sun shines!)
 
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My potterton combi80 boiler was going on for about 20 sec and then off for few minutes and radiators weren't getting hot. Gas safe Engineer recommended power flush of system which doesn't make sense to me. After going thru this forum I diagnosed that diverter valve body was hot but pipe connection after diverter valve was cold. This looks like problem that diverter valve isn't functioning. I changed diverter valve wax capsule assembly (bought from ebay for £80) and boiler works fine and all radiators are hot like new. This is first time I am writing on any forum to let people know that there are rouge traders certified by gas safe and how this forum saved me from getting ripe off.
 

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