Pre-work for shower

[Carlnorwich]

I would like to install a shower cubicle in my bathroom, I am not ready to get a plumber as yet.

I was thinking of doing some of the prep work; i.e. place the shower tray in position and tile the walls. Before I can tile the walls I must make sure the hot and cold feeds are buried in the walls ready for the new shower taps.

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• Carlnorwich
• 1 Nov 2008
• 2

I would like to 'chase' the wall out and place 2 x copper pipes in the wall ready for the hot and cold taps (please see the diagram), the bottom of the pipes would be under the floor ready for a plumber to connect to a nearby hot and cold (this is running off a combi boiler).

1/. I believe the copper pipes should be 15mm?
2/. Should they be 150mm apart (ready for the shower taps to screw on)?
3/. How deep should the pipes be in the wall?
4/. I know I can't buy these copper pipes 'off the shelf' should I contact a local plumber and have them made, or is there another way to get around the problem (place some sort of duct in the wall)?

I know this isn't the best way about going about things, but will it be okay to do it? I have some spare time on my hands at the moment - but not a lot of cash.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[seco services]

1, 15mm will be ok
2, 150mm but measure the mixer valve first or look in mi
3, 30mm will be deep enough
4, ask the plumber who is doing the job.

i always protect my pipes with 15mm conduit and pipe clips.

 

[leakydave]

and it is always a good idea to fit isolation valves if you can.

I put my pipes in the following arrangement... less cutting into the wall. I cover pipes in grey duct tape to protect.

! v !
!__!
!!
!!
!!
!!

where v is the valve. Make sure there are NO pipes where you need to fix shower to the wall!!

 

[muggles]

Also, make sure the shower tray is absolutely level otherwise you'll have all sorts of fun and games when you try to fit the enclosure

 

[leakydave]

... and dont clip the pipes so rigidly that there isnt as little play in them, few mm each way, so they are in exactly the right place after tiling when you fit shower valve. Copper saddle clips are what I use.

Take a photo of bare pipes so you know exactly where they are. You wouldn't want your new soap dish to start spraying a continuous body jet, would you!

 

[Carlnorwich]

Thank you very much for your advice.

A couple of questions, this is the sort of shower valve that will eventually get fitted

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• Carlnorwich
• 2 Nov 2008
• 1

Can I therefore just have 2 pipes running parallel (150mm apart) as aposed to what you show in your diagram above (leavydave?). I don't mind cutting the wall, the challenging bit will be to get a plumber to make the pipes up for me, I don't want to confuse matters getting him to put extra bends in.

Also, you say leave some play in the pipes, however, when the pipes have been burried in the wall I will cover them with plaster and tile over so there will not be any play in them - I'm a bit confussed about that bit?

Thanks again.

 

[seco services]

you can have two channels.

what you can do is secure the pipes (loose) fit the valve on the pipes then tighten the pipe clips.

that valve you can tile etc with the valve on, then just remove and fit the shourds and refit valve.

 

[leakydave]

you can get a bar mixer shower mounting kit so that its not actually the pipes that are holding the shower in place...


Try screwfix item # 93675. Not the one I have used but similar (but more expensive)

 

[neds]

Keep joints in the buried pipework to a minimum, as access afterwards will be tears. Also service valves would be a great idea, somewhere accessible earliest opportunity depending on where the H&C feed is coming from.

I'm going to be putting in a shower soon too, but I'm building mine onto a stud wall, which will be tanked and tiled. Good thing with that is that i have access to the pipework from the back of the stud wall should I need it.

 

[Carlnorwich]

Everyone,

Thank you for all your help with this one.

Best regards,
Carl.

 

[Carlnorwich]

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• Carlnorwich
• 3 Nov 2008
• 2

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• Carlnorwich
• 3 Nov 2008
• 1

Taking into consideration all the issues around preparing for a shower by sinking the hot/cold feeds into the masonary wall. Although I didn't want to do it, I can put the valve on the adjacent stud wall (which is Aquapanel).

If you are still with me and not fed up with me yet, any chance of some advice on this approach?

I could cut a peice out of the Aquapanel (say 50mm x 50mm) where the valves will eventually be fitted (just above the horizontal batten), I could then cut a groove in the batten and another groove into the batten at floor level. When the plumber arrives he could slide the pipes behind the board, from the valve position to below the floorboards.

Is this a good approach, is there anything I've missed?

Thanks again.