Preparing for a re-wire

[chaosss]

Hi,

I am in the process of buying a 100 year old house that is in need of a re-wire.

I should have an overlap period of about a month between giving up my rented accommodation and moving in to this house so it seems sensible to get the re-wire done while the house is empty.

Now I am not prepared to re-wire it myself (although I have done some wiring in the past I don't want to put my family at risk). But I do want to do a lot of the preparation to reduce the cost (hopefully someone will come in run and connect the wires and that is basically it).

From what I understand upstairs the wires run up from the floor to the sockets and downstairs they run down the walls to the sockets. Is this correct? Obviously wires to the light switches always run down (ceiling to switch).

So I would like advice on steps I need to take to reduce cost. So far I think:

Remove wood panelling where I need wires run to sockets and light switches.
Remove all of the floorboards upstairs.
Remove kitchen units where a cable run is required
Remove all kitchen appliances
Remove bath panels etc so pipes can be earthed

Anything else I have obviously forgotten. I wasn't going to chase the walls as I am planning on battoning and plasterboarding over the top anyway.

I would also like cables run into the bathroom in case I decide to install a whirlpool bath in the future. Can just leave a junction box under the floor?

Also a "friend" has quoted me a price but can anyone tell me if it seems reasonable. He has said about £2k to rewire (me doing the donkey work). The house is a 3 bedroom terraced cottage.

Any other hints or tips would be greatfully received.

Thanks in advance

 

[plugwash]

From what I understand upstairs the wires run up from the floor to the sockets and downstairs they run down the walls to the sockets. Is this correct?

Thats what you generally see in houses that have a suspended timber floor upstairs and a solid floor downstairs. If both floors are suspended timber then generally both will come up from the floor.

Remove wood panelling where I need wires run to sockets and light switches.

Remove kitchen units where a cable run is required
Remove all kitchen appliances
Remove bath panels etc so pipes can be earthed

all sensible

Remove all of the floorboards upstairs.

You wan't to speak to your electrician and see where he wan'ts to run cables then get those boards easy to lift (e.g. screwed not nailed and not held in by tounges anymore). Lifting the whole floor is certainly not nessacery and would make access to do the work very difficult.

 

[chaosss]

I know some of the ground floor is suspended but not sure if all of it is. The other thing is the kitchen has lovely tiled floor and I really don't want to rip it up if I can get away without doing it.

Will have to speak to the electrician about how much of the floor to get up.

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

Ah, the kitchen!

A super way to do a kitchen is to have a row of double sockets all around the walls just above the worksurface, and 20A DP switches in the same row feeding unswitched 13A sockets below, so you can put under-counter fridges, dishwashers and washing machines wherever you want without needing a long flex or an additional socket. Plus an FCU in the same row to feed a flex outlet above for the extractor hood. I reckon an outlet every 60cm is about right, except near the sink.

This needs little chasing and as the cable does not go up and down for each outlet it is economical in labour and materials.

You might also like to have the kitchen on a separate ring from the rest of the ground floor, as it has such a lot of appliances.

 

[chaosss]

Ah, the kitchen!

This needs little chasing and as the cable does not go up and down for each outlet it is economical in labour and materials.

Does the cable them travel horizontally between each socket?

This is a complete newbie question I realise so be gentle

 

[JohnD]

Yes.

Running cables horizontally is completely permitted; it is very safe because the route between the outlets is so obvious that people hardly ever drill or nail into it, and it is very easy to put additional outlets into the row by cutting in another box and running the cores in the existing oval conduit (or under the existing capping).

Mr. Sheds is another enthusiast for plenty of sockets in the kitchen and previously provided a photo which shows how he has avoided the expense of tiling or papering.

 

[divadoll_1]

John...would u happen to have the link to this Mr Sheds post?

 

[JohnD]

John...would u happen to have the link to this Mr Sheds post?

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=43348&start=0

but the picture has expired now.

 

[Chris.J]

Ah, the kitchen!

A super way to do a kitchen is to have a row of double sockets all around the walls just above the worksurface, and 20A DP switches in the same row feeding unswitched 13A sockets below, so you can put under-counter fridges, dishwashers and washing machines wherever you want without needing a long flex or an additional socket. Plus an FCU in the same row to feed a flex outlet above for the extractor hood. I reckon an outlet every 60cm is about right, except near the sink.

This needs little chasing and as the cable does not go up and down for each outlet it is economical in labour and materials.

You might also like to have the kitchen on a separate ring from the rest of the ground floor, as it has such a lot of appliances.

I always prefer to have the outlets etc higher up; about 400mm above the worksurface, but not "hard up" against the bottom of the wall units. This way, I think the cables from kettles etc "dress" better, the plugs are easier to handle, and if your missus likes tins etc at the back of the w/s, the sockets are'nt in the way?

 

[JohnD]

very reasonable. Also that way they're clear of spillages.

 

[jondiy]

Also, if you have kitchen sockets on more than one wall, the horizontal run cannot pass horizontal through the corners of walls, ie you can run a horizontal row, then on the last socket on that wall you have to go vertical up the wall , along the ceiling then back down vertical to the new socket on the other wall before going horizontal again if you get what I mean.

Its to do with the metal corner capping that the plasterers fix to the corners - it could become live if the cable is not adequately protected etc -and poss other reasons , will have to check the regs, although your spark will sort all that out for you.

 

[chaosss]

Thats brilliant guys. Thanks for all your help.

I have no doubt I will be back for loads of advice. After doing the re-wire the next project is to build a garage (doing that myself though)

 

[JohnD]

Also, if you have kitchen sockets on more than one wall, the horizontal run cannot pass horizontal through the corners of walls, ie you can run a horizontal row, then on the last socket on that wall you have to go vertical up the wall , along the ceiling then back down vertical to the new socket on the other wall before going horizontal again if you get what I mean.

Its to do with the metal corner capping that the plasterers fix to the corners - it could become live if the cable is not adequately protected etc -and poss other reasons , will have to check the regs, although your spark will sort all that out for you.

You mean an external corner, not an internal one? Good point. Hadn't thought of that. I think I might try to bore through the wall though, to avoid it.