Questions about rendering around a window/door reveal

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Hi,

The french doors that were doors to the garden are now internal doors due to our extension. I want to tidy up the bricks and render and would be grateful for your advice.

Currently the ends of the brick that form the reveal are rendered and then the render is painted white. I want to retain that look.

I'm going to be putting brick slips over the original bricks because they are in bad condition. But of course the render ends flush with the face of the original bricks and I'll want it to end flush with the face of the brickslips.

Some questions:
1) What is the right terminology here - Is it rendering a reveal?
2) Can I just add a bit onto the render that's already there (presumably stripping the paint first)?
3) Or given the condition of the original render, should I just chip the whole lot off and start again?

Here are the pictures.

20210206_101145.jpg 20210206_101157.jpg 20210206_101202.jpg 20210206_101133.jpg

Thanks
 
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pedr0, good evening.

If it were me?? I would have that old "Reveal" render OFF it is pretty shot especially near the bottom, near the floor.

Can I suggest that you consider fitting a timber facing on the reveal this will allow you with some ease to fit the brick slips??

Ken.
 
Thanks @KenGMac,

The reveal or return or whatever it's called is 140mm, plus about 30mm adhesive and brickslips so about 170mm to the face of the brickslips. So what timber would you suggest? Mdf or pine or other? And just a square edge or would some sort of moulding be more fitting here?
 
pedr0, good evening, again

My preference would be to fit a timber rounded end timber [sometimes called a "Pencil Round"] pretty much to the dimensions you have mentioned, but? if you can ensure that the wall that the brick slips are to be attached to is [as near as possible] vertical so that over the height of the corner the brick slips do not come out over the timber?

Reason for
A/. Rounded [pencil Round] is that if someone bumps into it they are not striking a sharp edge?
B/. Timber will be more robust if impacted, and easier to repair if an impact damages the timber.

As for the terminology ?? either reveal or return, but if you live up here they are often referred to as an "Ingoe"

Ken.
 
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Thanks @KenGMac.

Damn! Just remembered that the render goes under a soldier course at the top, which has a gentle arch (not seen in the photos). I wonder if I'll be able force the timber to that shape without steaming.

Aside from that though, another plus for timber is ease of installation - it's something I should be able to do and get a decent finish.

I'm weighing up pine vs MDF.

Pine:
+ more resiliant & easy to sand to a nice surface before painting.
- might have a tendancy to warp at that width, or I'd have to join two bits to get the 170mm width.

MDF:
+ Can do the 170mm in one stretch.
- Will have to put the pencil edge on myself with a router, and risk getting that rubbish rough edge that you get with cut mdf which shows up when painted.

What d'you reckon?
 
if you have a router [plus appropriate bit] the MDF appears to be winning ?

Ken.
 

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