R1 + R2 Plugs

[PartPapproved]

Hi could anyone tell me somewhere where i can purchase the plugs that you place in a socket then connect to your test meter to gain the R1+R2 reading. I have found one at my local wholesaler but they are quoting about £40 plus the vat for it. I remember seeing a post from BAN about one purchased from Ebay for a lot less

Thanks for you help guys

 

[kier]

depends which meter you want to attach R1 & R2 test lead to.

try www.bemco.co.uk

i use an alphatek easitest meter and they supply a breakout out box for this meter £15.00 + vat.

e-mail them your requirements for more info.they have been very helpful.

[email protected]

 

[andy]

or you can get parts and make your own (PSU case with copper earth pin, few 4mm sockets to connect leads and your done.

 

[16thedition]

I Just use a normal plug with three holes just big enough for my probes to go through above each pin.
Suppose I am gonna get slammed by all the safety concious amongst you.

 

[Big_Spark]

I Just use a normal plug with three holes just big enough for my probes to go through above each pin.
Suppose I am gonna get slammed by all the safety concious amongst you.

Consider yourself duly slammed..

Why not simply disconnect in the board and do the test properly how it should be done?

Just a suggestion..

 

[16thedition]

Well

I do the Rs in the CU myself I only use the plug check my results around the circuit.
It is also a quick way of finding a fault in a ring that has come on testing

 

[Gasman1015]

Try here.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....2677&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_ReBay_Pr2_PcY_BID_IT

 

[PartPapproved]

Thanks very much for that Gasman

 

[Qedelec]

PartPapproved,

Most wholesalers have copies of Professional Electrician on the counter. There is an advert in most months for a calibration unit and for the plug you need. Retails for about £12.95.

I made my own originally but this is much better.

 

[PartPapproved]

Thanks for that Qedelec I also read that magazine but guess what, the two copies I have to hand dont have that advert in it
typical isnt it or or can see it
Thanks again Ill keep my eyes peeled

 

[ebee]

I use a macrotest 5035.
The plug flex has three seperate coloured leads on to connect to the meter.
It`s not shown in the manual but if you set to lown ohm scale (black and blue leads usually used) and use correctly coloured for the Ph 1 to N2 + Ph 2 to N1 test and similarly put the green plug in the blue socket for Ph1 to E2 + Ph2 to E1 test then this would allow you to make the tests.
However caution advised if using the wrong combination of plug/socket orientation because it might just be asking for an accident.

Hope that helps

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Why not simply disconnect in the board and do the test properly how it should be done?

So do you never take any resistance readings at sockets when you test?

 

[PartPapproved]

Thanks for that comment BAN I thought that maybe I was being thick when he said that he does it properly at the board, The idea of going around the sockets is to check for polarity and spurs and branches

 

[PartPapproved]

Thanks for that ebee, but i have the megger 1502/2 and their plug leads come with a tricore plug that plugs into the meter so no fooling the meter like you can do with the macro test, How are you getting on with that meter, that was the first one i bought but it tripped out rcds on the EFLI test despite saying that it didnt, their solution to the problem was to use the setting for testing earth rods but the range of the measurements is only in 1 ohm increments which is not detailed enough for most work.

many thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The idea of going around the sockets is to check for polarity and spurs and branches

I thought so too. So did Mr Scaddan and Mr Whitfield when they wrote their books, and so did the people who wrote the OSG & GN3....