rangemaster cooker connection

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Hi all,
I am installing a new rangemaster proffessional dual fuel cooker that is rated at 7.4kw total load and have a couple of questions.

1. I am calculating I would need 6mm cable but is there any advantage to using 10mm? The circuit will only be a maximum of 5 metres

2. I have a 32ma and 45ma mcb spare in my consumer unit. I think 32ma would be sufficient but again is there any advantage to using the 45ma or buying a different ma rating one?

3. If i get a cooker socket with a switch on it would that increase the load and therefore effect the above?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Hi all,
I am installing a new rangemaster proffessional dual fuel cooker that is rated at 7.4kw total load and have a couple of questions.

1. I am calculating I would need 6mm cable but is there any advantage to using 10mm? The circuit will only be a maximum of 5 metres
It would depend on the route but not likely to be any advantage unless you plan to up-grade the cooker latter
2. I have a 32ma and 45ma mcb spare in my consumer unit. I think 32ma would be sufficient but again is there any advantage to using the 45ma or buying a different ma rating one?
I hope not 32ma I think you mean 32A and the MCB needs to match cable and 32A is likely to match 6mm and 45A match 10mm cable.
3. If i get a cooker socket with a switch on it would that increase the load and therefore effect the above?

Thanks in advance.

No but do remember this will be under Part P and you will need to either pay council £100+ to DIY or get a registered electrician.
 
Not if it's a freestanding cooker that comes with a flexible hose that will plug into an existing bayonet connector.

And not in any circumstances if he's not doing it for reward.
 
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Not if it's a freestanding cooker that comes with a flexible hose that will plug into an existing bayonet connector.

And not in any circumstances if he's not doing it for reward.

No cooker comes pre-fitted with the flexible hose, it has to be fitted on site.

Hows he going to do a tightness test then and check working pressure etc?
 
diluted washing up liquid?

the cheap alternative to the leak detection sprays that you can get.. does the same thing, bubbles if it leaks..
 
diluted washing up liquid?

the cheap alternative to the leak detection sprays that you can get.. does the same thing, bubbles if it leaks..

Illegal to use that, it's corrosive ;)

Fitting of any new appliance has to have a tightness test carried out.
 
corrosive on what?

they used it all the time at my old place whilst pressure testing the braized copper pipes for the air cons they make...
 
Whenever a new gas appliance is installed there must be a gas tightness test carried out on the installation and the results must be within the laid down criteria to be accepatble.

The electrical tests, insulation, earth etc etc are much the same.

Would a qualified, competent and hard working sparks install a new electrical appliance to a circuit without the basic checks on that circuit being carried out?

Coljack, 'Apparently' it is corrosive to copper etc, I have not come across this personally, but can only quote our regulations.

My argument, which has always peed off those who think they are superior to me and pretend to be authoritive on the subject, is that washing up liquid has never to date burn't any skin off my hands :rolleyes: :LOL:
 
Whenever a new gas appliance is installed there must be a gas tightness test carried out on the installation and the results must be within the laid down criteria to be accepatble.
Define "must".


The electrical tests, insulation, earth etc etc are much the same.
Yup, and there's nothing that says they have to be done either.


Would a qualified, competent and hard working sparks install a new electrical appliance to a circuit without the basic checks on that circuit being carried out?
No, but a DIYer might.


My argument, which has always peed off those who think they are superior to me and pretend to be authoritive on the subject, is that washing up liquid has never to date burn't any skin off my hands :rolleyes: :LOL:
But your skin isn't made of copper....
 
I think anyone will generally understand what the definition of 'must' is.

This in itself could be a topic that runs to pages, a bit like your post about **** not be defined as a swear word :rolleyes:

I for one do not have the time or inclination to be so pedantic ;)
 
Pipes are copper.

Yes, the bayonet connection is brass.

Neither of those are what needs checking though - it's where the hose screws into the cooker. IIRC with my current cooker that's iron.
 
Pipes are copper.

Yes, the bayonet connection is brass.

Neither of those are what should be checked though - it's where the hose screws into the cooker. IIRC with my current cooker that's iron.
 

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