ravenheat csi 85 (new model)

[bluemore]

I've been having the overheat/flameout RED LED comming on a lot.
Changed the overheat thermistat and the CH thermistat. This had no effect.
If I have the HW setting at the Min (the first position on the dial) and the CH setting on the min, the boiler will remain alight.

If I try and run HW when the CH is active, the RED LED comes on.

Any ideas?

 

[superdupergasman]

Sluggish pump?? not dispersing the water quick enough from primary heat exchanger.

 

[Agile]

I dont think so!

Is the boiler still under the warranty???

Tony

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

How old is the boiler ?
How many lights on the front 2 or 3?
Half the battle is identifying what parts you have in there as Ravenheat have been adding more stuff to their boilers in order to comply with new legislation.
Was your overheat stat a liquid phial and capillary leading to a reset button or a round sensor sort of a pound coin size-ish with 2 wires going to it?

These don't have thermostats but thermistors. Was it green and on the right hand side pipe? Clip on or wet pocket?
On the newest models they have added a fan modulation board which is apparently causing problems similar to yours.

 

[bengasman]

Check when you force the lockout light to come on if the boiler starts to spark and measure how long it takes before it locks out.
As you said the led means overheat or flame failure, it would help to know which one it is

 

[bluemore]

I read a thread some time ago suggesting oiling the fan motor shaft. It was so obvious I never bothered but having now done this, CH, DHW both fine and can run both without LED coming on. Temperature now hits max without any issues.

In the first 3 days of its life, Ravenheat did replace the FAN assembly (and PCB at another visit)

 

[bengasman]

In the first 3 days of its life, Ravenheat did replace the FAN assembly (and PCB at another visit)

that means you are now ready for the third fan? how old is this thing?

 

[bluemore]

Its 3rd birthday is in March!
The corrosion on the mouth of the fan intake is sever as is the magnetic assembly and connections for power and earth on the fan motor.
This is down to ill fitting joints and a steam leak that occured twice on the primary heat exchanger feed (which requires a major strip down to just tighten it up) which feeds high temperature steam into the fan mounting area. Its a crap design that could be improved by rubber seals (and better quality control at assembly time)
Still, Its a RAVENHEAT and I'm kinda getting used to it now.
It does a good job for a very small price (it just needs a can-do DIY approach if you want to own one)

 

[gas4you]

New Ravenheat boilers are generally very good when installed properly.

It sounds as if you have been very unlucky with yours.

I take it that the Ravenheat engineer stripped it down and tightened all the joints to stop this happening in the future?

 

[bluemore]

Not at all lol. They said it could not happen. I just do it all myself now