RE: 2-way CU meter tails

[RF Lighting]

But it's not about the OP cherry picking the wrong information. You said 6.0mm² will be fine to use, and that 16.0mm² is just convention.

You're right about this being a DIY site, and that's why it is absoloutely crucial that the right information is given.

When we are presented with an OP as clueless as in the original thread, then the ONLY advice that can be correct is to let a COMPETENT person do the work.

 

[RF Lighting]

I can not imagine a set up where two adjacent CUs have cables running through insulation not like he is putting the new CU at the other end of the house

What's that got to do with anything?

Do you actually know what fault current is?

 

[Ahtyrrell]

Ahtyrrell, what the f…… does this relate to????. is there some other topic with more information?
The general idea is that you would make your comments as part of that topic, rather than start another separate one.

Even a link to the original thread would be useful.

sorry the original thread was locked so I had to reply separately

 

[ericmark]

I think the problem with any DIY installation is it is rarely going to comply completely with the rules and regulations be it simple lack of paper work, Lack of testing or something which will produce a danger.

So forgetting about testing and paper work what you need to consider is
1. Can the tails be damaged?
2. Is it very short?
Where the cable run is very short and it can't be damaged then we can use cables where the protection device on the load side will prevent overload. 433.2.2 is the rule number.

However although 6181XY Double Insulated Surface Wire is manufactured as 6 mm² to find anyone stocking it may be another question. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk list 10mm to 35mm and £1.78 x 6 = £10.68 which is hardly going to break the bank.

The problem is to fit a Henley block you need to remove the supply although some times isolators are fitted in the main it means drawing the DNO fuse. Attitudes vary area to area but personally if it was my house then I would fit a large MCB in existing CU and move something from old consumer unit to new one to make room for the large MCB. So second consumer unit would have one more outlet than extras required.

Did this with mothers house the MCB feeding cooker was removed and replaced with a 63A MCB which had a 32A RCBO feeding cooker leaving 30 odd amp for rest of kitchen.

Because this supply was protected by a 63A at source no three meter limit so new consumer unit mounted in kitchen with SWA feed. If any circuit does trip in kitchen then two steps to reset it. Most likely toaster but design is the big thing you can get all the protection you need without having to use Henley Blocks.

What we all fear is the jobs worth. Once seals are broken next visit there will be a report raised and some one will come and inspect and re-seal. It could be simple with no problem but anything which makes the guy think there is likely some danger may mean he will ask for the installation certificate so best is not to have anything which could make the guy renewing the seal question site safety.

 

[Ahtyrrell]

Think like a DIYer. You are DIYing because money is tight. You have some 6mm cable, a qualified spark on the internet has told you it is OK to use but bigger would be better. Do you go out and spend another £20 on cable, or do you just use the 6mm cable?

No some people DIY because they enjoy the learning and the sense of achievement and also if they do it themselves they know its done to their own standard.
I did the eclectics in my workshop myself using conduit and trunking and I dare say the install is a much higher standard then allot of domestic electricians would have carried out certainly better then allot of workmanship I see these days, infect the material cost was far more then some spark's had quoted to carry out the job using T+E and cheep accessories.

Although I do have a degree in engineering so know a fair bit more then your average DIYer

I still think that we should make every effort to help people rather then just telling them to get a qualified spark there is no harm in explaining things

 

[RF Lighting]

Oh you've got a degree. I do apologise.

 

[Steve]

Think like a DIYer. You are DIYing because money is tight. You have some 6mm cable, a qualified spark on the internet has told you it is OK to use but bigger would be better. Do you go out and spend another £20 on cable, or do you just use the 6mm cable?

No some people DIY because they enjoy the learning and the sense of achievement and also if they do it themselves they know its done to their own standard.
I did the eclectics in my workshop myself using conduit and trunking and I dare say the install is a much higher standard then allot of domestic electricians would have carried out certainly better then allot of workmanship I see these days, infect the material cost was far more then some spark's had quoted to carry out the job using T+E and cheep accessories.

Although I do have a degree in engineering so know a fair bit more then your average DIYer

I still think that we should make every effort to help people rather then just telling them to get a qualified spark there is no harm in explaining things

Agree with all this, and I did some of the electrics in my own house, and my mothers house, and know it is of a good standard, but the trick on this forum is being able to tell those like myself, and those who you know are trying to work down to a price.

 

[knowall]

Yes, all fine until the insurance claim…… you did it yourself sir……… and what qualifications do you have ?

I guy on the internet said it would be fine

 

[aesmith]

Yes, all fine until the insurance claim…… you did it yourself sir……… and what qualifications do you have ?

More scare mongering. Any sort of dispute on an insurance claim would have to be on the basis of the installation being negligently substandard, not on who did it.

 

[knowall]

FACT !

KA

 

[aesmith]

FACT !

KA

Let's see your authority for that.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I other words you do not know. Read the first post, it was easy enough.

You are mistaken. Unfortunately you do not know what you are doing.

When you claimed "I will not be doing the work." you are it seems unaware that "design" is part of "the work."

You have not said who will be doing "the work."

Nobody is doing anything which could reasonably be called "design".

But the stage where that should happen is being royally screwed up by the sort of person whose competence is perfectly illustrated by this:

I am just interested in the new regs that's all. I understand that a metal gas and water pipe (if metal) must be earthed to the main earth bock. If both gas and water are plastic, which as I stated is common in new builds, then do you need to ram in an earth rod outside? The reason for these additional earth paths via gas and water pipes, is in case the main earth path is disconnected for any reason. But if no extra paths are there? What do they do?

BTW, my gas and water pipes are earthed.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Exactly, on the locked post I used the word ignorant and stand by that!