Recessed spotlight spacing

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Hi all,

New here and buying a new build house and we're looking to put recessed spotlights in every room in the new house but am a bit baffled about how many we need.

All of the guides I've found on working it out says to take the square footage and times by 1.5 to get the total wattage and then to divide by the wattage of the bulbs.

Based on a 14x8 foot room that says we need 3. I've been in the room and 3 will not cut it.

Here are the rooms (in mm):

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Here are some rough plans that I drew up:

Upstairs

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Downstairs

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Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Andy
 
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That's because spotlights are not good at illuminating a room. They are good for putting small pools of bright light in a dark area. Lighting a spot.

BTW in a few years it will be very tedious to fill in all the holes and have all your ceilings replastered. The noise from upstairs will pass down, and the heat and moisture will rise up, through the holes.
 
That's because spotlights are not good at illuminating a room. They are good for putting small pools of bright light in a dark area. Lighting a spot.

You see show homes with spotlights all the time and they look great.

We are going with 5w LED (50w equivalent) so should be quite nice.
 
That's because spotlights are not good at illuminating a room. They are good for putting small pools of bright light in a dark area. Lighting a spot.

BTW in a few years it will be very tedious to fill in all the holes and have all your ceilings replastered. The noise from upstairs will pass down, and the heat and moisture will rise up, through the holes.

Why would we need to fill the holes?
Noise?
Heat?
 
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Rule of thumb, go for about a meter spacing between the wall and the first spot, and a meter between spots.

You can shorten the wall distance a touch, to say 800mm if needed (but make sure to keep it the same).

One thing to be wary of, is spot placement above your bed - you don't want to get it so that one shines directly in your face if the OH turns the lights on when you're not expecting it.

Don't know if it's possible for you, but consider (in the bedrooms and lounges at least) having banks of spots switched separately. So if you're watching TV, you can have the spots close to the TV off, but still on in the rest of the room, or you can have the lights directly above your bed on/off (depends on preference) and the rest on/off.

Lots of people naysay downlights, but so long as you get quality fittings, I don't think you'll have a problem.

Aurora and Enlite make some real high quality fittings, there are other makes available of course.
 
There is a huge difference between recessed lighting and spot lights. The typical MR16 or equivalent has a angle of light which varies from bulb to bulb including how shape the cut off is. Using a angled spot light aimed at a white wall will light the room far better than one shinning down on a dark floor.

I have two small spots either side of the bed head which as standard shine to allow reading a book in bed. As an experiment I instead aimed them at the white ceiling and these two very small spots actually did a good job at lighting the room. To my mind the problem is we carefully select the angle of the units and order them all off the internet to start with, then one fails and we replace with one from local shop so all our careful calculations are ruined.

So to start with you need to design around what you can buy local. Second is of course look at the colour of floors, and walls or any other surface the light will be bounced off. In essence the lights are no good to directly light the room, as I showed with my experiment as wall up-lighters they worked well. Surface area matters, this is why the fluorescent tube does such a good job. There are larger recessed lamps around 10" which either take 2D or CFL in them which work better than the spots because of surface area.

My son has a very small kitchen and he used 5 x 7W LED spots, and I had to get touch out of the car to read the display on the boiler. My living room has 10 x 3W LED lamps all candle and pointing up to white ceiling and there is ample light. It's not the watts or lumen that matters it is the spread. Had my son used 10 x 3W LED spots although less watts he would have got more light.

Fitting is another problem, he removed the ceiling plaster board, installed wet under floor heating in some rooms from below, then fitted the rock wool to reduce sound, and marked and made a detailed plan of where the lights would be fitted the boxes and cables for the lights, then replaced the ceiling, then using the plan cut holes and fitted lights. Yes living room worked out very well. But that is a lot of work, hardly worth it unless new ceiling is required anyway. He has nearly finished, it has been three years, had the mortgage people found out he would have been in a lot of trouble as during the work the house value clearly dropped. Yes now it is great kids can do what they want up-stairs you can hardly hear them down stairs.

A box like this
9020991733790.jpg
will not fit through the hole drilled for the down lights so either floor board need to come up or ceiling needs to come down. Or you botch it all and wreck the house.
 
Based on a 14x8 foot room that says we need 3. I've been in the room and 3 will not cut it.
3 would be absolutely fine - quite possibly more than you really need - as long as you use lights designed to do the job of lighting up rooms.

It's when you try to light up rooms with lights which are not just not designed to do it, but are actually designed to not do it, that you end up needing loads of them.
 
You see show homes with spotlights all the time and they look great.
If you say so.

I think they look sh*te. They look like you're living in a shop. They look like they are specified and "designed" by someone who does not have the first idea about good design, or sound engineering, or any knowledge of what lights are available, and who assumes that his target audience are likewise.
 
Why would we need to fill the holes?
Noise?
Heat?
Yup. Noise, heat, moisture, cooking smells. And realising that you don't like uneven lighting, and you don't like having your eyeballs boiled by piercing beams when lying in bed or relaxing in the bath.

Also - new build house - what is the roof space like for access and strength for you to move around up there? Because you will need to get up there to be able to enclose all the lights upstairs, to seal the enclosures to the ceiling, and to reinstate the insulation.
 
I think recessed lighting looks good in some rooms, perhaps kitchen and bathrooms, but to put it through a whole house!? No thanks!!
 
I have recessed lights in my kitchen, and more planned for hallway, landing, WC and bathroom.

But not tiny ones.
 

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