Recommend a router?

Joined
1 Jul 2006
Messages
510
Reaction score
10
Location
London
Country
United Kingdom
Can someone recommend an affordable router for general use? What features should i be looking for? I'm thinking sub £100 range..
 
Sponsored Links
you have a definate allergy to anything over a ton :D :D :D ;)

for worktops you need half inch router minimum 1400w otherwise you will have to make twice as many passes for the depth

if you are planning on lighter work like moldings and rebates 1/4" is fine

i have several routers from a 400w b&d thats over 20 years old to a 1850w hitachi m12v that spends most of its time in the table

i decided i needed an intermediate router to do some of the heavier work withought the hassle of de-mounting the green beasty
because my secondery kit is ryobi i decided on this 1150w ryobi 1/4" router for £45 to the door a very good price
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120128539664

and not only did it have a free 8 piece router kit it was also 1/2"

but strangley no spanner :rolleyes: :cool: will have to ask if its missing ;)
 
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
Sponsored Links
big-all said:
you have a definate allergy to anything over a ton :D :D :D ;)


Hah! :LOL: Well thing is i just blew 150 odd notes on a Makita chopsaw and 100 on that hitachi drill.. and it'd be pretty occasional use probably. If it will still do worktops albeit having to go slow.. all the better!.. However, i did see this one from Axminster.. care to confer your judgement? It's 1/2", does it have anything apart from that over the Ryobi one you've linked?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-AW127R-1-2-Router-21362.htm



Related query.. one of the jobs i want it for is an idea for a floating shelf in an alcove. I wanted to route 2 grooves in the sides and get some sort of fitting for the walls that would slide in nicely.. perhaps metal and rounded edges.. any idea's? Guess plastic would be fine too..
 
I have the Axminster, good value for money and will cope with worktops. Not really up there with the big names but one of the better ones for under £100.
 
Sounds good then.. it being a 1/2", can i still use 1/4" collets? Is that just the width of the shank, or the actual cutting pieces themselves.. also can you recommend a good starter kit of tools for it?
 
all half inch routers will have either collet inserts or sleeves to reduce the size to 8mm and 1/4"

this set will cover most normal things http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat...499&destination=/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=12890

i wouldnt realy consider the ryobi sutable for more than say 1 worktop a year as thats how long it will take to cut one with 1050w thats assuming thats the input power :D :D

also wont be realy sutable for larger cutter like panel or dado cutters
 
lol guess i'll go for the Axminster then.. thanks for the set link. Any idea's on a fitting i could use on a routed groove for the shelf idea? Also, how hard is it to put edge details in work and such without a router table.. do you need one as such?
 
you can easily mould timber router matt and cutters with bearing wheels

or on end with a batton each side to give a larger work area and the fence keeping in mind you will have to move the clamp for the fence to pass
 
big-all said:
you can easily mould timber router matt and cutters with bearing wheels
Translation: You can easily edge-mould timber using a router mat ("sticky" rubber mat on which the workpiece is positioned - it's anti-slip properties act in a similar way tpo clamping the work down) using bearing guided cutters

big-all said:
or on end with a batton each side to give a larger work area and the fence keeping in mind you will have to move the clamp for the fence to pass
Translation: Edge moulding (e.g. grooving, etc) can be achieved by clamping the work upright in something like a Workmate then clamping a piece of material either side of the workpiece to give a wider surface area for the base of the router to ride on (the edge of an 18mm board is difficult to route as the router tends to tip from side to side), however the router fence will foul the clamps holding the support strips at the start and end of the cut and they will need to be moved to allow the start and end of any cuts to be made

Scrit
 
I am quite certain i'd never have decoded that on my own.. thank you both! It all makes sense now. :)
 
kaseryn said:
I am quite certain i'd never have decoded that on my own.. thank you both! It all makes sense now. :)

yeh sorry about that :D :D :D

thanks for that scrit even i understand it now :D :p ;)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top