Remote switch for an immersion heater

[amateurdiyer]

Hello, readers! My first post, so hope this makes sense.

I have an immersion heater for a hot water cylinder connected to a fused spur (I believe this is correct, but I am no expert on terminology). Looks like this:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BG950.html

It is now connected to the immersion heating element via a 24 hr timer like this:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TCTI24.html

The hot water cylinder with the timer and the switch is located in a cupboard in the bedroom. So, what I am trying to do now is to install a remote switch (pull-cord type) somewhere nearer or even in the bathroom to switch the immersion on/off. The timer is seldom used, and prefer to just switch on the immersion to top up the hot water before showering.

Suggestions on how this can be wired up?

Thanks for reading.

 

[OwainDIYer]

You'd wire a switch between the permanent live and switched live of the timer, to bypass the timer.

The switch should be more than 15 amps.

In most parts of a bathroom you'd need a pull cord switch and MK do a 15A rated one.[/]

However that has no visible indication whether the immersion is on or off. All the other switches >15A are for showers etc and have a mechanical on/off indicator. I would suggest not using these, as they could give the misleading impression the immersion is off/isolated even though it could suddenly become live thanks to the timer.

You still need the FCU in place to provide fusing to the circuit and also to provide double pole isolation near the immersion.

 

[Lectrician]

The MK ones do not come with a base - you buy that as an extra - with or without a neon

You would need a neutral for the neon.

I would be more inclined to fit one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Timers_Index/Immersion_Heater_Timers_2/index.html

Or similar.

 

[amateurdiyer]

Thanks guys for the replies.

Lectrician, appreciate the suggestion, but since I would like to put my new switch in the bathroom, the boost switch probably be a bit dangerous? I'll probably put the switch beside my current pull cord switch for the lights.

Guys, will I just need a two-core cable then to run from the timer to my new switch? Doesn't seem right to have a 3 core.

 

[AndyPRK]

What Lectrician suguested would be fitted near the tank. (maybe outside the cubard in the bedroom)

This would be a lot quicker and easier to install.
and has the advantage you won't leave it on.
and don't need to go back to it to turn if off.

Just set it to what boost you want. 15 mins to 1 hour.

Because of the neon, the wiring becomes a pain for a pull cord

 

[amateurdiyer]

Hm... something to think about.
If I do use the boost timer, will I throw away the old one then?

 

[AndyPRK]

No

Keep that so you have hot water in the morning when you wake up.

 

[amateurdiyer]

Had a discussion with other half, who definitely prefers a pull cord switch in the bathroom. I was just wondering if there's any safety concerns for locating the switch (my mind keeps going to it conducting 13A when being used)? I am planning to install it beside the current pull-cord light switch, but I am guessing (maybe very badly) that anywhere outside zone 2 is fine?

I am concerned that AndyPRK suggested the neon will be a pain to wire - can you explain?

Any advice appreciated.

 

[OwainDIYer]

If you want a neon, you have to run a neutral to the switch. That will need 3 core + earth cable.

But as it will take quite a lot of minutes to heat the water before showering, why have the switch in the bathroom?

If it's to heat the water while showering, so there's hot water for the next person, then the boost timer would work.

Sometimes you have to give Other Halfs what's best, not necessarily what they want.

 

[securespark]

I would be more inclined to fit one of these:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Timers_Index/Immersion_Heater_Timers_2/index.html

Or similar.

I have recently ordered the very same to satisfy Mrs Secure's lust for hot water and cope with her forgetfulness at the same time!

I'll let you know how I get on.

 

[Lectrician]

We fit these in flats all the time, more often where you have two elements - one on the off peak supply and one on this timer for boosting.

I have one on my dual fuel towel rail, but mine is a timeguard one which also incorporates the DP switch AND a standard timeclock in one unit (with advance and boost).

http://www.timeguard.com/products/t...st11a-supplymaster-24hr-fused-spur-timeswitch

If you are really set on the rather mad idea of a pullcord, you would need to run some three core to your pullcord to incorporate a neon - you *could* get away with 1.5mm if it is not run near thermal insulation, but 2.5mm would be preffered - 2.5mm 3core is not readily available, so you are likely to end up running two runs of 2.5mm T+E.

If that was an issue, you could run some 1.0mm 3core and use a contactor.